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  • Running-in a new engine?

    Hi, I've been wondering if anyone knows of ?do?s and don?ts? with reference to the running in procedure of a new engine. If my proposed purchase of a SWB Petrol NS goes through, then sometime shortly after I will need to drive to Canberra from Adelaide (1200 km each way). So I?ve got some concerns about sitting on a constant speed/rpm for prolonged periods with a brand new engine. Does anyone know if this is a problem, should this be avoided?
    Thanks.
    SWB NS-R (Subsidised) V6-Petrol, G/Metal Grey, Rear locker.

  • #2
    Mitsubishi publish a break-in process so it would pay to speak with your dealer. From memory it is aimed at bedding the rings in properly and doesn't take long. I'm not sure if it went further to discuss recommended driving styles in the first _km though?
    NS oil burner shorty

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    • #3
      Read the owners manual, it explains it all in there.


      But in short, you should not do a trip where you are sitting at a constant rpm during the run-in period.
      thanks,

      Adam

      2010 Prado ZR 150 SWB
      1987 Range Rover Ute

      You tried your best and you failed miserably. The lesson is, never try. - Homer Simpson

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      • #4
        For the first 2000km, I kept the RPM under 2000rpm where possible and always under 2500rpm.

        If you have to do a long trip then vary the rpm as much as possible.
        Mike R. Sydney. Pajero GLS NX Silver Jan15. DiD Auto. STILL grossly disappointed with the errors in Speed Limits on major roads in my TomTom.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mike DiD View Post
          For the first 2000km, I kept the RPM under 2000rpm where possible and always under 2500rpm.

          If you have to do a long trip then vary the rpm as much as possible.
          what? so your new redline is 2500rpm?
          who told you to keep the revs down?

          I could argue this, but this guy put it better than i could.
          To call this page the bible would be an understatement, it hung on the wall at my old machineshop.

          http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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          • #6
            Wow! Now that is food for thought! I?d heard something similar but didn?t realize the first 20 miles were the critical ones! I totally agree with the oil change philosophy.
            Great link thanks for the input guys.
            SWB NS-R (Subsidised) V6-Petrol, G/Metal Grey, Rear locker.

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            • #7
              as an oil analysis guy (and i did not see any MPA oil testing with his "figures") i cannot agree with the web site. you cannot drive a new motor like you stole it, you will cause large amounts of wear debris and all those hot gases passing the rings at high load/rpm are taking the place of where the oil should be!

              for large diesels etc the correct procedure is to monitor blow by gas pressure and slowly raise rpm/hp until max hp is reached without excessive blow by.. oil is then changed and regularly tested for correct changeout time.

              so for a engine like the DiD simply drive it "normally" and don't thrash it or over rev it.

              of course that's only my opinion 0.02c
              SWB NT X DiD its R E D

              SWB NS X DiD that's double D's !! Retired

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              • #8
                Originally posted by mitsubosozuko View Post
                what? so your new redline is 2500rpm?
                who told you to keep the revs down?
                Read what I wrote - FOR THE FIRST 2000KM my redline was 2500rpm.

                I used this procedure for my NP DiD Auto and when I sold it at 97,000km it still had better power than the NS has at 6,000km, and it never had the oil level drop at all, between oil-changes at 15,000km .
                Last edited by Mike DiD; 13-12-07, 09:48 AM.
                Mike R. Sydney. Pajero GLS NX Silver Jan15. DiD Auto. STILL grossly disappointed with the errors in Speed Limits on major roads in my TomTom.

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                • #9
                  If break-in is finished in the first 20 km, then how come everyone is reporting improvement in performance up to 5000km ?
                  Mike R. Sydney. Pajero GLS NX Silver Jan15. DiD Auto. STILL grossly disappointed with the errors in Speed Limits on major roads in my TomTom.

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                  • #10
                    Also the run in process is pretty controlled by the ECU/Gear Box management system. I read somewhere that for the first x KM's the gear box changes are pretty clunky and this is done without your input, to make sure that the gearbox beds in properly, I think also that the engine management controls the power output, even though revs might be there.

                    Mike is right though never stay at one rev for too long, ie if you travel some distance to work, run the box in manual and change down every now and then to move the revs around. As for reving the crap out of the engine, let us know how it goes for longevity, I'll consider it for my NT pajero.

                    Dan C
                    Dan C; Stock NS Exceed DID Auto w T'bar, Magellan Explorist XL w DAST topo, Tom Tom One

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mike DiD View Post
                      If break-in is finished in the first 20 km, then how come everyone is reporting improvement in performance up to 5000km ?
                      I reckon my NP DID was still improving up to 25000km ...

                      Anyway what is break in .. to my way of thinking it is wearing all the rough bits off bearings and other moving parts to produce smooth running surfaces ... bedding the piston rings into the bores ... with all the bits and pieces from manufacture floating around in the oil (although most should get filtered) i reckon an oil change at 7500km would be well advised ...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mike DiD View Post
                        For the first 2000km, I kept the RPM under 2000rpm where possible and always under 2500rpm.
                        Also after run-in, I red-line at 2000rpm until after the temperature gauge rises above one-third.

                        It works for me.
                        Mike R. Sydney. Pajero GLS NX Silver Jan15. DiD Auto. STILL grossly disappointed with the errors in Speed Limits on major roads in my TomTom.

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                        • #13
                          mike good practice to take it easy... my toureg took 11 minutes for water temp to get to operating temp, oil temp took 18!! oil takes wee while more
                          SWB NT X DiD its R E D

                          SWB NS X DiD that's double D's !! Retired

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Mike DiD View Post
                            Also after run-in, I red-line at 2000rpm until after the temperature gauge rises above one-third.

                            It works for me.
                            If this was a car you were planning to keep till your grave or somethign to that effect - any measures like that can only be a good thing. But i get the impression after the last one this isnt?? so wats the point?

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