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Any experience with stopping DPF burn by reprogramming ECU

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  • Any experience with stopping DPF burn by reprogramming ECU

    Hi all. Has any one had any real world experience with having their ECU reprogrammed to not perform a DPF burn? I believe Chip Tuning offer an ECU re flashing service which they claim will do this. Not looking to have my ECU re programmed for anything else, am happy with all other factory settings. Just a bit nervous about having the ECU played with?
    Last edited by coolsilverpaj; 13-12-13, 10:04 PM.
    ARB Deluxe bar, 9500lb Winch, Snorkel, 2 inch lift Old Man Emu Suspension, Poly Airs, Dual batteries, Cooper AT3's,UHF, Home made drawers, Engel 40ltr Fridge and slide, Bush skinz underbody protection, extended breathers, 3 inch exhaust, Windcheeter roof rack, Roof top tent, 81ltr Long Range Automotive tank.

  • #2
    In the UK, where I am based currently, the experience with reprogramming DPF parameters out of Shogun/Pajero NS ECU's has not been positive and I'm aware some chip tuners have ceased offering this services on NS Shogun/Pajero's. They may have found a workaround by now, but earlier this year when I was looking into it that was the conclusion. That's not to say someone in Aussie hasn't had better luck with this, but I believe it has been more troublesome to do this on Pajero/Shogun than other makes/models.
    2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

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    • #3
      NT onwards have no DPF. Have any of these tuners looked into adapting an NT ECU to run the NS?
      NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

      Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

      Scorpro Explorer Box

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      • #4
        Thanks Kiwi1973. I believe most of the re flashing software and chips used by the Aussie companies are from those already developed in Europe. So if it doesn't work on an NS over there it most probably won't work here.
        ARB Deluxe bar, 9500lb Winch, Snorkel, 2 inch lift Old Man Emu Suspension, Poly Airs, Dual batteries, Cooper AT3's,UHF, Home made drawers, Engel 40ltr Fridge and slide, Bush skinz underbody protection, extended breathers, 3 inch exhaust, Windcheeter roof rack, Roof top tent, 81ltr Long Range Automotive tank.

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        • #5
          nj swb I have thought of this but the NT engine and trans are slightly different to the NS. I believe the NT head has more compression and a slightly higher turbo boost? I think there was a power and torque increase from the NS to the NT of about 10% and the trans is a bit stronger. So I would think that the ECU peramiters would also be different? But maybe it could be reflashed to suit an NS? Maybe someone here may know more about that? Plenty of NT ECU's available from wreckers.
          ARB Deluxe bar, 9500lb Winch, Snorkel, 2 inch lift Old Man Emu Suspension, Poly Airs, Dual batteries, Cooper AT3's,UHF, Home made drawers, Engel 40ltr Fridge and slide, Bush skinz underbody protection, extended breathers, 3 inch exhaust, Windcheeter roof rack, Roof top tent, 81ltr Long Range Automotive tank.

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          • #6
            NT compression ratio is less. 16 v17 to one from memory.
            Boost is about 14 psi on a NS and 17 psi on an NT.

            If you unplug the dpf differential pressure sensor burns will stop. Only do this if your dpf is removed obviously.
            Engine light will come on but that is all.
            .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
            NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

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            • #7
              Hi Goodsy. If this is disconnected does this also include the pre programmed kilometre triggered burns?
              ARB Deluxe bar, 9500lb Winch, Snorkel, 2 inch lift Old Man Emu Suspension, Poly Airs, Dual batteries, Cooper AT3's,UHF, Home made drawers, Engel 40ltr Fridge and slide, Bush skinz underbody protection, extended breathers, 3 inch exhaust, Windcheeter roof rack, Roof top tent, 81ltr Long Range Automotive tank.

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              • #8
                No burns at all.
                .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
                NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by coolsilverpaj View Post
                  nj swb I have thought of this but the NT engine and trans are slightly different to the NS. I believe the NT head has more compression and a slightly higher turbo boost? I think there was a power and torque increase from the NS to the NT of about 10% and the trans is a bit stronger. So I would think that the ECU peramiters would also be different?
                  Originally posted by Goodsy View Post
                  NT compression ratio is less. 16 v17 to one from memory.
                  Boost is about 14 psi on a NS and 17 psi on an NT.
                  Aren't these "chips" effectively changing parameters anyway?

                  To me, the minor differences in compression ratio are not worth worrying about, and the extra boost of an NT won't break the NS if there's no fuel to go with it. The differences aren't what I would consider significant, and given my Ultragauge regularly reports 18psi, and I've seen 22psi, I don't think the boost is that critical

                  Yes, the NT trans is stronger - but most NS tuners seem to crank up NS output to match NT levels anyway.

                  If a chip can turn the power up, why can't it turn the power down? Rather than worry about how to tune up an engine and try to disable a function, will it be easier to start with a tune that doesn't include the unwanted function, then tune fuel / timing / boost to whatever is reasonable for that engine / trans?

                  There may be major differences in sensors / control functions that make this simply too hard. Has anybody looked at differences between the control systems? I haven't...
                  NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                  Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                  Scorpro Explorer Box

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                  • #10
                    I brought the NT ECU in the hope of converting it

                    Plugs are different to start with and I didn't feel like being a guinea pig.

                    Since fixing my dpf issues I don't see the big problem any more with the burns.
                    NS Pajero Exceed. With stuff

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                    • #11
                      Since getting rid of my DPF with a 3inch exhaust from the factory cats back I have not had any DPF issues and I suppose I could leave it at that. It's the kilometre triggered burn that just annoys me, the car is not the same to drive whilst it's going on. Fuel usage goes up, power goes down and the car gives a little hesitation between gear changes whilst the burn is going on. I can tell when it is happening by the 'seat of my pants'. What annoys me even more is we run Isuzu trucks at work, all with cats and DPF's. Not a single DPF related issue in a combined 1.6million kilometres bewteen the 4 of them. The main difference is the truck DPF's are unbolted and rotated 180 degrees (not end to end) at specified service intervals. Maybe cars need to be done the same?
                      ARB Deluxe bar, 9500lb Winch, Snorkel, 2 inch lift Old Man Emu Suspension, Poly Airs, Dual batteries, Cooper AT3's,UHF, Home made drawers, Engel 40ltr Fridge and slide, Bush skinz underbody protection, extended breathers, 3 inch exhaust, Windcheeter roof rack, Roof top tent, 81ltr Long Range Automotive tank.

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                      • #12
                        Mine was exactly the same!

                        How often are you doing burns?

                        My last burn completed in 4.2 Klm.
                        NS Pajero Exceed. With stuff

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                        • #13
                          If the car is up to temp and cruising along on the highway it seems to complete a burn in about 5 to 10kms, barely noticible. My daily drive to work is 8kms made up of 3kms of 60kmh moving to 1km of 80kmh, slowing back down for a roundabout and then 4kms of 100kmh, no traffic lights. (Sorry I know it's a bit detailed) If the car starts a burn on the way to work it can take all of the working week to complete going back and forth as the car only gets up to temp a couple of k's or so from each end of the trip. This is when I really notice the burn, particularly the hesitations between gear changes coming out the roudabout coming home. I can smell the extra fuel in the exhaust fumes when I pull up in the drive and the exhaust has a different note.
                          ARB Deluxe bar, 9500lb Winch, Snorkel, 2 inch lift Old Man Emu Suspension, Poly Airs, Dual batteries, Cooper AT3's,UHF, Home made drawers, Engel 40ltr Fridge and slide, Bush skinz underbody protection, extended breathers, 3 inch exhaust, Windcheeter roof rack, Roof top tent, 81ltr Long Range Automotive tank.

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                          • #14
                            It shouldn't make a difference highway or traffic

                            How often between burns?

                            Do you have a delete pipe? Is your throttle plate still in?

                            Are all your sensors working?

                            I had a lot of opinions on my DPF problems and the main one was the dpf temp sensor and a comedy of errors after that.

                            Or your cat need a clean. from my experience the ecu wants the temps in check. If the cats blocked that can cause restricted flow and different temperature readings or a sensor could be bad and doing the same thing.

                            I would start with the basics and the things you could do your self

                            Do you know if you have had a regen done recently? As I reckon when you do, it resets the ecu calculations for the klm/soot build up triggered burn as this seems to be a complex part of DPF cycle
                            if it does not sense any problems the burns seem to get further and further apart.

                            I may be wrong about all this, this is just my opinion
                            NS Pajero Exceed. With stuff

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                            • #15
                              Ns reprogram dpf delete : the reason this is hard is the denso ecu has encryption software preventing changing the code this has been cracked and Robert can delete them.

                              Things I'm toying with lever the next few months

                              replacing ecu with triton 3.2 also swapping turbo over to a waste gated turbo as triton ecu has no vnt turbo control this should be the end of all the problems forever if it all works well however lots of work n expensive plan is to buy a complete triton exhaust manifold turbo n dump pipe

                              5K resistor on temp sensor in tricks ecu into think Temps is too low and prevents erg from opening technically if erg is off dpf is also off as it relies on egr to be operational.

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