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Engine light, ASC light, traction control light, lack of power.

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  • Engine light, ASC light, traction control light, lack of power.

    Hi all, New to this site and a new owner of a dec/06 NS Pajero DI-D. We've had this car for about 2.5 weeks now and has been great. It has 190k on the clock, its a 5 speed manual.

    Yesterday afternoon we got in it to go out to dinner. Started it up and the engine light stayed on, so I turned it off, checked fluids and fuses etc, started it again and same engine light stayed on. We started to take off and the ACS/ASC (what ever it is) came on and also the traction control light came on at the same time, also noticed a massive loss of power too like its in limp mode.

    've read a few of your topics on here and has been a great help about the EGR valve. I found that and pulled that off as it get blocked up with soot from what im reading, cleaned that up with contact cleaner sprey (alcohol based sprey) with an old toothbrush till its like new. But it all back together and still the same lights come on. My mate (who works at Mitsubishi) said the problem may be fixed but the light will stay on untill you delete the error code. But I sent him a pic of how black the egr valve was and he said it wasn't too bad so im thinking it hasn't fixed the problem.

    Buying a scanning tool today so I can read the code via the obd2 plug. But untill then has anyone had this same poblem and know what it could be? We are ment to be heading up to Hervey Bay tonight lol.

    Many thanks in advance. Nathan.

  • #2
    another fella had the same lights come on (but no loss of power) - his turned out to be a blown tail light or stop light fuse under the bonnet...

    The power loss tho suggest (maybe) the DPF if you have one or one of the sensors - dealer time...

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    • #3
      Whats the dpf?

      Comment


      • #4
        Diesel Particulate Filter in the exhaust - looks like a big muffler with a wire and two pipes coming out of it (if yours is an auto NS).

        There's a heap about the DPF on this forum - long story short is that for some people they stuff up. Car goes into limp home mode. Need to visit dealer to fix.

        Many (like me) have relegated the DPF to a hook on the wall of the shed and have fitted a different setup (DPF delete pipe).

        We had a number of limp home modes occur before I cracked it and took the DPF off.

        THeres more info and here http://www.chiptuning.com.au/product...f-delete-pipe/

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jawk View Post
          Diesel Particulate Filter in the exhaust - looks like a big muffler with a wire and two pipes coming out of it (if yours is an auto NS).

          There's a heap about the DPF on this forum - long story short is that for some people they stuff up. Car goes into limp home mode. Need to visit dealer to fix.

          Many (like me) have relegated the DPF to a hook on the wall of the shed and have fitted a different setup (DPF delete pipe).

          We had a number of limp home modes occur before I cracked it and took the DPF off.

          THeres more info and here http://www.chiptuning.com.au/product...f-delete-pipe/
          I thought that the Manual NS didn't have the DPF?
          2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

          Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

          Wishlist:

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jawk View Post
            Diesel Particulate Filter in the exhaust - looks like a big muffler with a wire and two pipes coming out of it (if yours is an auto NS).

            There's a heap about the DPF on this forum - long story short is that for some people they stuff up. Car goes into limp home mode. Need to visit dealer to fix.

            Many (like me) have relegated the DPF to a hook on the wall of the shed and have fitted a different setup (DPF delete pipe).

            We had a number of limp home modes occur before I cracked it and took the DPF off.

            THeres more info and here http://www.chiptuning.com.au/product...f-delete-pipe/

            Comment


            • #7
              I bought a scanning tool (could use one in the line of work i do) and it came up with the code Po89 which say the Suction Control Valve is stuck. I've ordered one in from Mitsubishi and pick it up in about an hour or two. $462 later

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              • #8
                [QUOTE=jawk;339903]another fella had the same lights come on (but no loss of power) - his turned out to be a blown tail light or stop light fuse under the bonnet...

                I agree. I had a blown indicator fuse that put up warning lights and scared me! The fuse was small and it was hard to tell it was broken. I hope for your sake it is something simple.
                2004 NP GLS 3.8 Auto, ARB Deluxe Bullbar, O/L Rear Bar, Snorkel, Bilstein/Lovells, Cooper LT AT3, Lightforce 170's, GME TX3340

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Nathan83 View Post
                  I bought a scanning tool (could use one in the line of work i do) and it came up with the code Po89 which say the Suction Control Valve is stuck. I've ordered one in from Mitsubishi and pick it up in about an hour or two. $462 later
                  Yay - a new SCV for Christmas !

                  Just what you always wanted!

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                  • #10
                    It will actually transform the Pajero. If original it wad long overdue for replacement anyway.
                    .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
                    NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Now for the stupid question, Where does it go lmfao.

                      Has anyone got any pics?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Follow this thread, I replaced mine a few months back. http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...497#post335497

                        Mine was stuck when I removed it (the piston like bit in the middle) but after a gentle nudge with a screwdriver it started moving again so might have been able to re use it in an emergency situation if stuck in the middle of nowhere on a public holiday

                        but if you go to the trouble of removing it it is best to replace it as it is a "wearable item".

                        Hope this helps!
                        One of the last of the 08/09 NS DID GLX off the shelf!
                        Cool silver, black factory bullbar (to be replaced) & full tint. 697 LT 265/65/17. NS>NT Upper manifold replacement. MM Towbar, BushSkinz IC & Sump guards, Self made cargo liner. Reverse cam. Bluetooth Aux In.

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                        • #13
                          Awesome. thanks for that. I fitted the new valve, cleaned out the inside of where it bolts into the motor, replaced the fuel filter and the fuel hose (in case there was crap in it) put it all back together and still has the same problem and still throwing the same code P0089. A frined of mine said it might have to be initialized by the dealers computer (he works at a mitsi dealershp) but his other mate said no you dont have to?

                          Also even if i clear the code the ASC light still stays there and i cant turn it off neither by the scaning tool (cause there is no codes) or by the switch on the dash.

                          So im starting to think that the main issue is todo with that ASC light, what ever is causing that to stay on?

                          Any ideas?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You need to go for a drive to clear the ASC light as you would have had the battery out to replace the SCV.
                            And some codes the scan tools can't clear plus you will need a MUTT III to do an injector relearn after changing the SCV
                            2007 NS VRX Cool Siver, Mitsu Alloy BB with spotties, MM towbar, Family Pack, ARB Awning, Duel battery with Optima yellow top starter, Bushskinz intercooler and sump combo, 2" lift with Bilstein shocks and HD Lovels, Ultragauge (Sold 2014)

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for the info. So all it needs is that mutt thing to relearn the injectors.

                              Yea after I clear the code and drive it it's awesome, better than before BUT if I sit in 1 place and let it idol 700-750rpm after about 30 sec the engine light comes back on and throws the same code p0089 (scv). If you clear the code and keep the revs 1,000rpm and over its fine.

                              We drove it from brisbane to Hervey Bay (330km each way) and went like a dream the whole time.

                              It's going into the dealer tomorrow so I'm hoping all it needs is the injectors to be relearnt, and hope they don't try and BS me saying it's going to cost $600+ to fix! I will tell them I've already replaced the scv and cleaned out the egr valve (wasn't that bad with soot)

                              Really appreciate all the help guys

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