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Picked up a NS 2008 Pajero Gen 4 :- Need advice on some proactive must do maintenance

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  • Picked up a NS 2008 Pajero Gen 4 :- Need advice on some proactive must do maintenance

    Hello All

    New here and enjoying the abundance of knowledge and camaraderie in the community.

    I picked up a 2008 Pajero(called Montero in my part of the world) - its NS 3.2 AT Diesel. Its just over 100k kms run. First thing i did was to clean up the EGR as the P2413 code was popping up. Post EGR clean up the code vanished. Also no DPF on my vehicle - this part of the world it was not needed back then.

    Can the experts advice on what other proactive maintenance i should be doing to elongate the life of the vehicle ?

    I can think of a few like the resistor mod - read somewhere on proactively replacing the timing chain upper guide - any more advises.

    I intend to fully service including replacing all filters and fluids.

    Many thanks in advance!

  • #2
    Pointers

    Here are some pointers for you. Yours is a Pajero Gen 4.1 with a 4M41 engine. I am sure others will be along shortly to add to the list.

    Firstly I would do the EGR block off. If you do not have a DPF then your models are like ours in SA and do not throw up a fault code if you fit a blank plate. Google Gen4.1 EGR blank off. You just need to cut a piece of thin plate to slip in between the EGR pipe flanges.

    Check the viscous fan clutch. If need be, go to a new vehicle with a viscous fan clutch and feel the amount of resistance it has to turn by hand while engine is stationary of course .

    Check fan belts.

    Check radiator core is not blocked with seeds, grass, etc.

    Check / get some one to check the valve clearances. Check the top timing chain guide while you are about it. Should have a plastic wear "shoe". Should be fine - previous Gen 3's were a problem. Google again - 4m41 timing chain guide.

    Check the condition of the ATF. It may be just as well to change it anyway at least you then have a reference point.

    Check / change tranfer case and axle oils.

    Change the antifreeze (pref genuine) and brake fluid (Dot 4). Google it too. You need to have ignition on at some stage.

    When you check the brake pads you will find the brake calipers have special bolts with a long shaft and thread near the head of the bolt. Grease the shaft to prevent it from rusting and seizing. The bolt also has a rubber boot make sure it is not torn. Do not get grease on the brake pads or brake disc.

    Check the frame of the sunroof and treat / protect against rust. Google rust in sunroof frame Gen 4.1.

    Check the big driveshaft nut, You need to take the rear wheels off and need a very big socket and bar. Google that too.

    Depending on how hard it has worked check the suspension bushes for cracks.

    Enjoy. A great vehicle

    Comment


    • #3
      Many Thanks Piet, an excellent starting point for me.

      I was thinking of doing an engine decarb - but know it might not help the inlet manifold much.
      Regarding EGR block, i also read the resistor mod, which is cheap and easy - my question is does doing this cause any unwarranted after effect ?

      I am asking because i had the engine p2413 egr valve code, which got erased after i cleaned the egr and put it back - i also felt subsequent to this cleanup, the engine idle felt smoother and rest of the drive better too.

      I hope blocking egr wont cause coarseness or anything with the engine.

      Comment


      • #4
        Advice

        Double post.

        Comment


        • #5
          Advice

          Well without PDF I believe your vehicle is specced like ours (also std without PDF) and does not throw out a fault code if you block off the EGR with a blanking plate. Because it is just blocked off the ECU still opens and closes the EGR valve but without the flow, your manifold is not subjected to all that soot. If it does throw out a fault code once blocked with a plate, (I doubt it will), just clear it and then go the other route as they do in Aus.

          You will not notice anything with the EGR blank. Only less problems long term.

          Comment


          • #6
            Worth putting on an oil catch can to take oil from the intake system. On my NS I get about 100mls of oil per 10K kms - better out than in.
            Gary

            2008 NS DiD Exceed. MM factory alloy full bar, Autosafe cargo barrier, Roley's rear bash plate, Uniden 8080 UHF, Baintech powertop aux battery in cargo area (removable), Jaycar battery isolator, fire ext mounted in place of rear door handle, Redarc EBC, BushSkinz IC & sump. ARB Frontier replacement fuel tank, Pedders track rider suspension. Lockup Mate.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Garc View Post
              Worth putting on an oil catch can to take oil from the intake system. On my NS I get about 100mls of oil per 10K kms - better out than in.
              Thanks Garc can you send me a pic of where is the location of the catch can and also where you bought it from ?

              Btw gentlemen the egr code popped up again, last week when i cleaned it - the code went away automatically after some time of driving - but now it popped up again, my guess is the dc motor is weak and unable to operate the valve when a little carbon builds up. Any other possibilities i am missing ?

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi Guys i finally replaced the egr and now the engine check light is gone.
                Also wanted to ask on the headlamp leveller light - it coms up on twisties and bad roads usually and goes off after some time - seems to have a mind of its own. Anything i should do proactively to make it more predictive ?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Guys

                  One question after the new egr was put in, this weekend i also changed all the oils per procedure especially atf and engine oil apart from diffs and transfer case.

                  I disconnected the battery for 15 mins to ensure ecu relearning happens and it did - after this the vehicle was smooth yesterday. but this morning i again felt it was a bit coarse as if the ecu learning vanishes after shutting down and restarting again.

                  I find this weird. May be i will try this a few times to make sure its not me. But anything else i should be checking or doing or i am missing anything else ?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Did a fast reading an didi not see the recomendation on checking if the timing chain guide was changed (its a recall) if not have ir done and check for chain wear. Also both front airbags hqve recall due to the Takata issue.

                    Other thing is to crsn the MAP se sor and its hose connecting to the inlet manifold, it blocks with soot, the NT manifold is different with the outlet for the hose further up, some peiple have changed the manifold for the NT version.
                    2000 SWB NL 3.5 SOHC V6 AT.
                    Adjustable suspension, Rear Locker, Suspension Seats, Cruise Control, 8500 Lbs winch, all factory fitted.
                    31x10.5R15 Pirelli ATR?s and forever thinking on the lift.
                    2009 SWB NS 3.2 DOHC DID AT 265/70/17 BFG AT/KO, OME SD Springs +4 Rear locker, 8.500 Lbs Winch...new toy!!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Did a fast reading an didi not see the recomendation on checking if the timing chain guide was changed (its a recall) if not have ir done and check for chain wear


                      It's the tensioner not the guide. NS, NT, NX, NW all have a redesigned guide.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
                        Did a fast reading an didi not see the recomendation on checking if the timing chain guide was changed (its a recall) if not have ir done and check for chain wear


                        It's the tensioner not the guide. NS, NT, NX, NW all have a redesigned guide.
                        Yes, thanks for the correction, the guide is for NM and NP, the tensioner is for NS and NT...
                        2000 SWB NL 3.5 SOHC V6 AT.
                        Adjustable suspension, Rear Locker, Suspension Seats, Cruise Control, 8500 Lbs winch, all factory fitted.
                        31x10.5R15 Pirelli ATR?s and forever thinking on the lift.
                        2009 SWB NS 3.2 DOHC DID AT 265/70/17 BFG AT/KO, OME SD Springs +4 Rear locker, 8.500 Lbs Winch...new toy!!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Patagonia View Post
                          Yes, thanks for the correction, the guide is for NM and NP, the tensioner is for NS and NT...
                          Thank you gentlemen , there hasnt been any recall in the NS in this region, i confirmed it. If anybody can comment/ throw some light on my query of smoothness/coarseness few posts after ecu reset that would be very valuable. Many Thanks in advance.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hello all

                            in my 2008 Pajero Gen 4 i have a rockford fosgate 6 cd system - which has no bluetooth or aux wire - so i went ahead and fitted the mz360136ex connector as per instructions. Now the aux cable works fine.

                            But i have a srs airbag light - and no error codes on torque - baffled why this is the case. I checked the passenger side ac vent connector and it was fine - it lights up at startup.

                            There is no code whatsoever and i never had any such issue before i did this aux wire fitting - so really baffled where i went wrong.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              the above happened as the airbag connector was removed without the battery terminals disconnected, my bad, air bag codes can be cleared by mut only..

                              Btw i think i now have a clean baseline of the vehicle, only thing to go after is the noise from the dashboard now, which is well known..my first thing to do is to secure the passenger side under the glove box plastic as its currently dangling on one screw...i suspect this is making a lot of noise apart from the glove box itself..the centre console i am not sure if that is contributing too..though lot of people have pointed to it too..

                              Comment

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