Seasons Greetings to all forum members

Below Nav Bar Ad Module



No announcement yet.

Socket to remove injector pipes NS 07 3.2 DID

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Socket to remove injector pipes NS 07 3.2 DID

    Hi all,
    Need to adjust my tappets - Has anybody got information on the deep socket with a cutaway that is used to remove and replace the injector pipes on a '07 3.2 NS DID engine?
    I assume you could modify a standard socket to do the job.....but what size is it?

  • #2
    I just used a spanner. Worked fine for me. Twice now.
    .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
    NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.


    • #3
      17mm on a NT I assume it would be the same on the NS
      NT GLX DID AUTO. 2'' HD Lovells Bilsteins Polyairs, Whiteline Swaybars Prodigy3 ,Dual Battery Redarc Isolator ,Ultraguage ,Eazlift WDH.AirtechSnorkel,No Limits Chip,Clearview Mirrors,Donaldson Fuel Filter.Abr Battery Monitor,Oricom UHF,Arb steel bullbar,Arb 9000xs Driving Lights,Homemade Rear Shelf with Waeco Fridge Slide,Anderson Plug, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard ORU 12000lb Dyneema Winch,2.75 IN Beaudesert exh,SPV MK3



      • #4
        I used an openended spanner as well. They arn't that tight however I did use the fatest one I had. Remember when doing them up they have to be tight but not tight enough to 'hold the whole vehicle together'.
        Regards Allan
        2009 NT, 3.2 Auto, D/Lights & Light Bar, EGR mod, Sump and Inter Cooler Guards, Tow Bar, Bog Standard.


        • #5
          I have a set of these which IMO are the best for this type of work


          • #6
            MB992188 Fuel injection pipe wrench

            MB992188 Fuel injection pipe wrench

            This is the mitsubishi socket which allows fuel lines to be torqued up to correct specification.

            A google search should find a supplier

            200 Series
            AOR Quantum 4


            • #7
              Originally posted by Goodsy View Post
              I just used a spanner. Worked fine for me. Twice now.
              Did you get air in the system? Or after the pump it doesn't matter? Just wondering before I will take it off... ��


              • #8
                Flare nut spanner - but make sure you use a quality one because the cheapies have a nasty tendency to open up. Even better is a crows foot which will be stronger and can be attached to a ratchet. Be very careful when you refit them - you must use a torque wrench and make sure that they are exactly as specified (which isn't all that much). Over or under tightening can lead to leaks and you don't want that given the pressure the fuel is under.

                Don't worry about air in the lines, the fuel will push that through in no time.

                Also remember to mark that you've removed them in your service book. They can only be done 5 (I think) times.


                • #9
                  Just read the intake manifold cleaning thread and there is a picture of a crow's foot with torque wrench right there. Unashamedly pinched it to demonstrate the right way to remove the fuel injector lines.



                  • #10
                    I bought a set of these to do mine

                    Click on the catalogue page to see what they look like
                    2009 NT GLS DiD 5spd - ARB Deluxe bar, Tigerz11 12,000lbs Winch, Airtec Snorkel, ARB Front Locker, TJM Rear Locker, Hankook AT-M 265/70/17, Bilsteins, Lovells HD 50mm, Bushskinz Intercooler, Sump, Trans & Transfer Case Guards, Brown Davis long range tank, Pioneer Head Unit, ARB Dual Battery Tray, Redarc SBI12, GME TX3440, Lightforce 240 Blitz, Stebel alarm & car horns, Rhino Pioneer Platform rack, DIY (Rear Shelf, Sliders, Fridge Slide), Ultragauge, 3" Exhaust


                    • #11
                      what the dealers use

                      I watched my dealer do the tappets at the 60,000 service, long story.

                      The dealer just used an open ended spanner. I would have thought they would have used the correct tools but no they don't
                      2010 NT DiD Platinum, MM tow bar, Red Arc electric brake controller, ARB Delux bullbar, Ultimate HD suspension and shocks, Engineers cert for GVM upgrade, Airtech snorkle, Cooper ST Maxx, 2nd Battery+ extra sockets, catch can, intercooler/ sump/ transmission guard, scan guage II, Hid driving lights, Ironman awning, daytime driving lights + other little bits


                      • #12
                        Thanks. Do I have to do the same way at the other end as well? On the fuel pump?


                        • #13
                          If you can get a 17mm injector pipe socket you won't regret it. Especially if it's been done before by heavy handed mechanics that don't use torque wrenches.

                          These things can be dam tight, I know mine were. You'll be in hurt world if you roll the nut. Another thing to note, be sure to torque to correct setting, 30,000 PSI is no joke.


                          Matched content