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  • Alternator pivot nut

    Alternator belts went to crap with the misses driving 2 days ago. Picked up the belts and a new AC belt too. First time attempting to replace them, so been a bit of fiddling around. The pivot bolt nut at the back of the alternator, I cant for the life of me loosen, so I cant get the new belts on as the alternator wont adjust.

    Anybody have good ideas for access to the nut from the bottom? Things removed, type of fittings etc.. Struggling to get tools up in there and the 17 spanner starting to slip on the nut, beginning to round it. Bloody ridiculous place to put the nut, instead of at the front.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I used a shortish 17mm spaner. its a nightmare though.
    07 Mitsubishi Pajero Shorty - Currently rolling around Africa

    Insta: https://www.instagram.com/wrongturnadventure/
    Website: https://wrongturn.com.au/

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    • #3
      A good quality ring spanner is required, it may need to be a special - half moon or a "S" shaped obstruction spanner if a conventional zero or low angle offset ring spanner will not fit.

      OJ.
      2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
      MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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      • #4
        I think I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar, maybe with a 6" extension, (just to get the nut "cracked)

        Might pay to try to get a single hex (6 sided) socket to prevent further damage to nut.

        Once cracked I then just use a normal spanner.

        Another trick is to just remove the bolt that attaches alternator to adjuster so you can lever alternator back through it's travel, replace belts, force alternator back out to put a bit of tension on belts, then adjust adjuster to suit and refit bolt.
        You then might be able use adjuster properly to finalise adjustment.
        The movement of the alternator my also loosen the alternator on it's pivoting bush a bit as well. I think it should pivot (with a bit of effort) on this bush anyway.

        Memory is a bit vague as have had to contend with this nut since I bought my NJ 20 years ago. After the first couple of times (practice) it becomes just another process and not to hard.
        PCOV Member 1107.
        Daily driver NX GLX
        Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
        Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
        Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.

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        • #5
          I used a Repco brand 1/2 open ender and ring. Using the ring end I tapped it with a hammer and had to reverse it after each small move.......Wait to you tighten it up!!!!
          NT Pajero Exceed-factory tow bar and nudge bar-Provent 200 catch can-Michelin LTX Force tyres-DBA slotted front rotors-Bendix 4x4 Pads-Sheep Skin front seat covers.

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          • #6
            Ring end on the nut or open end. I had the ring end on but there’s another connector getting in the way, right where the end of the spanner lay. Was tapping with a rubber mallet but couldn’t get enough bite on it. Might need to get new, and longer spanner. I was using a 17mm.

            I was thinking a similar attachment like in the photo might also work for access.
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Ring end on the nut. Yeh, I know the connector you are talking about that gets in the way, but you can get the nut undone, just a little patience required. The Repco spanner is 17mm and has a bent shaft, and you're able to get small movements at a time. I used a metal solid hammer to hit the spanner to crack the nut.
              NT Pajero Exceed-factory tow bar and nudge bar-Provent 200 catch can-Michelin LTX Force tyres-DBA slotted front rotors-Bendix 4x4 Pads-Sheep Skin front seat covers.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by gazza11 View Post
                Ring end on the nut. Yeh, I know the connector you are talking about that gets in the way, but you can get the nut undone, just a little patience required. The Repco spanner is 17mm and has a bent shaft, and you're able to get small movements at a time. I used a metal solid hammer to hit the spanner to crack the nut.
                I have done mine with this way, just need little bit of patience.

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                • #9
                  These are a serious pain, and it's the same problem on my 2012 NW.


                  What I ended up using was a socket, then a swivel joint, then all the extension bars I could manage and fed them up towards the firewall so they came out around the turbo / brake master cylinder area. Then just pop on your ratchet, and if you get it as straight as you can you can then push pretty firmly and it was a piece of cake to undo it. Needless to say, I only do it up firmly now! There is just not enough room down there with everything else in the way.


                  Good luck!
                  Greg
                  NW Platinum 4M41

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gregp View Post
                    These are a serious pain, and it's the same problem on my 2012 NW.


                    What I ended up using was a socket, then a swivel joint, then all the extension bars I could manage and fed them up towards the firewall so they came out around the turbo / brake master cylinder area. Then just pop on your ratchet, and if you get it as straight as you can you can then push pretty firmly and it was a piece of cake to undo it. Needless to say, I only do it up firmly now! There is just not enough room down there with everything else in the way.


                    Good luck!
                    Greg
                    Fortunately, as yet I have not had to attend to the alternator on my NW, so I don't know the problems involved, but a long time ago, I had a Citroen on which the starter motor bendix clutch used to fail regularly. It was a 6 hour job to remove and replace. I eventually replaced the engine mount on that side(the exhaust side) and then could do the job in about 2.5 hours. So is it possible to jack up the engine and get better access to this area?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by erad View Post
                      Fortunately, as yet I have not had to attend to the alternator on my NW, so I don't know the problems involved, but a long time ago, I had a Citroen on which the starter motor bendix clutch used to fail regularly. It was a 6 hour job to remove and replace. I eventually replaced the engine mount on that side(the exhaust side) and then could do the job in about 2.5 hours. So is it possible to jack up the engine and get better access to this area?

                      I guess you could, but now I know the procedure it's only a 10 minute job to get the bolt loosened. And since I only do it now as tight as I can comfortably manage with a ring spanner I can easily remove it with a ring spanner, so it's now a 2 minute job!
                      NW Platinum 4M41

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                      • #12
                        One must ask "why is it so tight?". Is it rusted in place or is it overtightened? My Max Elery W/S manual states 49 N m tightening torque for this bolt, which is not very tight. I would try to soak the thread with WD40 or similar for a while and if it is rusted on, this may help to remove it.

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                        • #13
                          Don't know mate. It's possible someone else overtightened it at some point. It moved freely once I cracked the joint so it wasn't rusted, in my case at least.
                          NW Platinum 4M41

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                          • #14
                            Lots of loud swearing. My god I swore. It’s a right prick of a spot and tight as fk but I did it with an open ended spanner. The only thing I removed was an electrical clip in the area, maybe the one running to the front diff solenoid.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pharb View Post
                              I think I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar, maybe with a 6" extension, (just to get the nut "cracked)

                              Might pay to try to get a single hex (6 sided) socket to prevent further damage to nut.

                              Once cracked I then just use a normal spanner.

                              Another trick is to just remove the bolt that attaches alternator to adjuster so you can lever alternator back through it's travel, replace belts, force alternator back out to put a bit of tension on belts, then adjust adjuster to suit and refit bolt.
                              You then might be able use adjuster properly to finalise adjustment.
                              The movement of the alternator my also loosen the alternator on it's pivoting bush a bit as well. I think it should pivot (with a bit of effort) on this bush anyway.

                              Memory is a bit vague as have had to contend with this nut since I bought my NJ 20 years ago. After the first couple of times (practice) it becomes just another process and not to hard.
                              Ended up applying a shit load of WD40, leaving it sit overnight and then using a pry bar to get the alternator to move a little back and forth (still tight as @*$#@*$#@*$#@*$# though). Bought a set of long ring/open ended spanners from supercheap $66, and got underneath With the 17mm. Ring end on (slight angled head), it came down enough to get some meat on it with a rubber mallet. Definitely the leavering with the pry bar did the trick. Tightened back up but didn’t swing off it!

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