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Shudder on down shift 2013 Manual

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  • Shudder on down shift 2013 Manual

    Hello everyone, Im hoping someone can give me some clues on a problem I am having.
    On down shift I get sever shudder, especially from 3rd to second.
    Up shifts have a tiny shudder occasionally.

    Thought it was the clutch. I replaced it and machined the flywheel recently when it started slipping, I was confident this was the problem- but no the shudder is still there.
    I am told if its engine mounts the gear stick will snap across on switch off- it doesn't.

    So has anyone some ideas what to look for next- I'm happy to consider the most way out solutions as its driving me nuts
    Thanks in anticipation.
    JIm
    2013 NW GLX-R Factory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher. GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback

  • #2
    I have a MY2013 NW Manual transmission Pajero. The gear stick certainly throws around when I shut the engine down. I had the engine mounts replaced under warranty and it was all good, but the gear stick is starting to hit mu left knee these days. I notice it mainly if the A/C is on - the engine seems to run on a bit on shutdown. I suspect that it is still the engine mounts which are your problem.

    My driving style involves engaging the clutch fully and THEN pushing the accelerator. This minimises slippage (and hence wear) of the clutch. While the clutch is engaging, you get a bit of grip/slip/grip/slip, which of course is the shudder you feel. If the engine mounts are stuffed, this allows the engine to rock around more than desirable, and you get the shudder. If the mounts are good, they will absorb a lot of the engine movement and make the whole thing go a lot smoother. I think that the mounts on my engine are getting bad again and will one day have to replace them. Sadly, this time it won't be under warranty.

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    • #3
      Hey Jimbo2,

      when you say you did the clutch I gather you did the pressure plate too, I suspect you did seeing you were nice enough to machine your flywheel but thought I would check.

      engine mounts work great under compression which they are most of the time. but they facture usually on one side which produces the rock you would feel because the motor tries to pull that side apart. the easiest way to tell is GENTLY jack the motor up and look at the mounts, if they start to crack or split you have just found your broken mount. Dont discount your thrid mount (back of gearbox) as these do split too.

      one other thing to check (though i expect you would notice the other tell tale signs is the front uni joint of the rear prop shaft for play. also while there that it doesnt have play in the back of the gearbox. There would be other vibrations with both of these but I have seen one car with a failing uni not vibrate on anything but a down shift.

      As I teach this as part of racing does a heel toe reduce the vibration on a down shift if you take up the revs before engaging the clutch?
      95 White LWB Panda coloured GLS TD28 running 18psi 2inch lift, 2 inch body lift, factory rear LSD maxxis bighorn muddies 25,000klms after total engine rebuild - Club reged Currently around 307,000klms

      Daughters - 2003 NP Exceed Silver Bone stoke getting a engine rebuild after a Major overheat (previous owner) - My current project

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      • #4
        Originally posted by oldn64 View Post
        Hey Jimbo2,

        when you say you did the clutch I gather you did the pressure plate too, I suspect you did seeing you were nice enough to machine your flywheel but thought I would check.

        engine mounts work great under compression which they are most of the time. but they facture usually on one side which produces the rock you would feel because the motor tries to pull that side apart. the easiest way to tell is GENTLY jack the motor up and look at the mounts, if they start to crack or split you have just found your broken mount. Dont discount your thrid mount (back of gearbox) as these do split too.
        Thanks for the replies,
        Yes the whole clutch was replaced.
        You made me realise something, that is the problem is occurring when the engine mounts are reverse loaded, its a really good point, something to have a good look at in the morning.
        Jim
        2013 NW GLX-R Factory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher. GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback

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        • #5
          I've had the same problem a couple of times on my NT (92K), when it does start to get bad I take the rubber inspection cover off. And with a extended spray tube - spray some WD40 or Lanotec into the gearbox shaft. Does make a big difference.
          2010 NT GLX, RD lock, Smartbar, Warn winch, Uniden UHF, Piranha dual battery, Redarc Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz protection

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          • #6
            Originally posted by MrIsuzu1 View Post
            I've had the same problem a couple of times on my NT (92K), when it does start to get bad I take the rubber inspection cover off. And with a extended spray tube - spray some WD40 or Lanotec into the gearbox shaft. Does make a big difference.
            Thank you very much, this was the final piece of the puzzle.
            I am curious though how you thought up this solution.
            Jim
            2013 NW GLX-R Factory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher. GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback

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            • #7
              Jimbo: You say this was the final piece of the puzzle. By this, I assume that you have cured the problem by lubricating the gearbox input shaft. The splines on the clutchplate need some lubrication, but not too much that the grease gets flung onto the clutchplate itself.

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              • #8
                Jim, ages ago on this forum I did some research about this and found out this is what Mitsubishi do (don't exactly know what spray they used) put it was all about putting some lube on the shaft.
                2010 NT GLX, RD lock, Smartbar, Warn winch, Uniden UHF, Piranha dual battery, Redarc Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz protection

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by erad View Post
                  Jimbo: You say this was the final piece of the puzzle. By this, I assume that you have cured the problem by lubricating the gearbox input shaft. The splines on the clutchplate need some lubrication, but not too much that the grease gets flung onto the clutchplate itself.
                  I also replaced the gearbox mounts (made a slight difference) and also gave the clutch some heavy slippage in the hope of bedding in the plate - not something I would do again, but it did improve the shuddering. At this point it was almost tolerable, then I saw Mrisuzu1's post, this helped quite a bit. Still some shudder, but nowhere near what I had.
                  2013 NW GLX-R Factory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher. GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Jimbo: When my friend rebuilt the engine on my NL, he applied a fair bit of grease on the g'box input shaft as he reassembled it. I queried this, but he assured me that it wouldn't get on to the clutch facing, and would help with the operation. It certainly was smooth after that, but was having not troubles before then either...

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