Suspension advice on NW Pajero

[Phoenix47]

Hi Folks

I’m new to the forum, my first post here…

I am looking for some advice on upgrading suspension on my MY2013 NW Pajero 3.2lt diesel in readiness for a caravan purchase and some separate off-road work. The caravan will be used for both short and longer journeys (planning a trip to tour WA and some central areas of Australia - we will unhitch van on anything that is not a good, unsealed road). While I know we should probably acquire the caravan first, so we know our final weights, I am keen to move forward on the suspension upgrade if sensible enough to do so, given that we are confident on the caravan we are looking to buy – a Jayco expanda outback (single axle, 16.49ft)... I thought I should get the car ready to take the van off someone’s hands. Perhaps we need to be more patient and get advice once we purchase, but I am not comfortable with the sag in the rear to row once we find a van. We have also been looking for 6+ months now (second hand) and we keep missing out each time we have found something suitable (…but we persist), so thought I could perhaps get the car 'ready'.

The weights for these vans vary depending on configuration. A particular configuration we are after (typical weights):

Caravan - Tare: 1679kg, ATM: 2054kg, TBW (empty) 155kg (Max ball load 192kg), GVM: 2000Kg, GTM: 1899kg.

Pajero - The NW has done 126k, has a factory suspension and alloy bull bar. Rhino pioneer platform rack (25kg). No other extras (no second battery, bash plates, etc.).

The original suspension has sagged with following ‘unladen’ measurements (no passengers, just a small toolbox, some deck chairs in back).

FR: 480mm; FL: 490mm; BR: 490mm; BL: 497mm.

I also use the car several times a year to access some of my work sites around the Flinders Ranges (Quorn, Hawker, Orratunga, Leigh Creek, Warraweena) – much of this is good, unsealed roads, but depending on how often the grader comes through, it can be ‘teeth rattling’ corrugations. There are some areas where clearance can be an issue so a lift would help and useful for towing.

All that said, the car is an everyday bitumen ‘work horse’ for 90%+ of its time. So, looking for compromise for both on and off-road and towing.

Based on what I have read here in the forum, I am considering… IMS struts/shockers with Kings KCFR-34 front and KCRR-35 rear coils. This I assume will give me a 25mm lift at front over factory (though I think the alloy bull bar is about 40kg) and 40-50mm lift at back over factory. The car will carry two adults (180kg – yes, we need to lose weight) and two kids in second row (100kg). Back area typically has 3 tubs of equipment (30kg), tools (10kg) and 40lt fridge (23kg full). I thought, if the back sags too much while towing, then perhaps air bags or WDH, though trying to avoid both or at least the former if possible (just something else to go wrong).

Other coil options might be KCFR-34H front (I believe same spring rate as FR-34, with 10mm more free length) and KCRR-35HD rear coils. I was also considering the Oz tec shockers/struts, but I can’t seem to see a model number for the 2013 NW (perhaps I am not looking hard enough).

I too was going down a similar path as ‘turbosi’ in his thread (below) looking at Fulcrum formula suspension:
https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...suspension-kit. (A very helpful discussion). I see Tony used the Poly Tuff front and rear insulators. Would these be needed or assist with my proposed setup? And I see Peddars 5899 cone springs are a strong recommendation.

Sorry for a long [first] post. I would be keen to get opinions before I make a move – much appreciated. Thank you.

Steve

[flyboy]

My gut feeling is that you should wait until you get the van. I get that you’re keen to get the ball rolling, but I think it’s best to get the van, hitch it up, take it to a weigh bridge - so that you can choose the right setup, first time.

KCFR-34H would give a decent front lift (40mm) with your front bull-bar, but if you have a significant towball down force, it will lift the front uncomfortably high. I think KCFR-34H front matches better with KCRR35 or KCRR-35C rears, as the stance front to rear is more level - but only when you don’t have much more than 100-150kg towball down force. Once you go above 100-150kg at the rear (especially given the weight you have in the back of the car), the front may sit too high with KCFR-34H and so KCFR-34 is better.

The other thing is that there’s no one size fits all solution. You want a smooth, gentle ride when empty for the highway - but then a firm rear suspension that won’t sag with approx 190kg ball weight and another 100kg in the boot. You can’t choose a spring that gives you both, although a variable rate spring is the best compromise. Airbags are frowned upon by some here, but it might be a good solution in your case to allow a compliant ride when empty and enough rear support when loaded.

You say you’re looking at driving through the middle of Aus and doing offroad trips, but don’t have bash plates. I think that should be your first port of call, because the factory jobs are completely inadequate or plastic - or in the case of the transmission, not even there

Get some bash plates installed, get your van, load the car up as you would when travelling (with car boot full and kids/partner on board), get it weighed - and then choose your suspension setup.

Oh, and start spraying your suspension adjuster bolts every week with INOX in preparation for the suspension change.

I’m halfway through installing KCFR-34H and KCRR-35C with KYB Skorched 4, so I can update you on heights and performance when I’m finished. I got the parts (including new rear lower spring seats) for under $1000 delivered. Not sure how helpful this will be though, because my towball down weight is only going to be about 60kg.

[Phoenix47]

My gut feeling is that you should wait until you get the van. I get that you’re keen to get the ball rolling, but I think it’s best to get the van, hitch it up, take it to a weigh bridge - so that you can choose the right setup, first time.

Thank you for your comments/advice... Yes, unfortunately this was my gut feeling too. There may be other 'improvements' made to the car as well - as you suggest, e.g. bash plates and I am still contemplating a duel battery system.

KCFR-34H would give a decent front lift (40mm) with your front bull-bar, but if you have a significant towball down force, it will lift the front uncomfortably high. I think KCFR-34H front matches better with KCRR35 or KCRR-35C rears, as the stance front to rear is more level - but only when you don’t have much more than 100-150kg towball down force. Once you go above 100-150kg at the rear (especially given the weight you have in the back of the car), the front may sit too high with KCFR-34H and so KCFR-34 is better.

Yes, this was my thoughts also... the front with FR-34H may sit too high once loaded at back, hence why I was thinking the FR-34s. But I guess this will all depend on the final fit-out of the car.

The other thing is that there’s no one size fits all solution. You want a smooth, gentle ride when empty for the highway - but then a firm rear suspension that won’t sag with approx 190kg ball weight and another 100kg in the boot. You can’t choose a spring that gives you both, although a variable rate spring is the best compromise. Airbags are frowned upon by some here, but it might be a good solution in your case to allow a compliant ride when empty and enough rear support when loaded.

Understand, and why it will be a compromise for each situation... getting the balance or priority correct though is a little concerning.

You say you’re looking at driving through the middle of Aus and doing offroad trips, but don’t have bash plates. I think that should be your first port of call, because the factory jobs are completely inadequate or plastic - or in the case of the transmission, not even there

Yes, you are right, this is something I should be looking at. I haven't had a problem thus far on my trips but I did get my self well acquainted with a very large wombat in Tas with my old Pajero. The front sump bash plate (steel) took a direct hit, only doing about 40kmph, but saved the underneath of the car.

Get some bash plates installed, get your van, load the car up as you would when travelling (with car boot full and kids/partner on board), get it weighed - and then choose your suspension setup.

I will have a look through the threads here... any suggestions on bash plates? Any idea how the aluminum plates perform?

Oh, and start spraying your suspension adjuster bolts every week with INOX in preparation for the suspension change.

I’m halfway through installing KCFR-34H and KCRR-35C with KYB Skorched 4, so I can update you on heights and performance when I’m finished. I got the parts (including new rear lower spring seats) for under $1000 delivered. Not sure how helpful this will be though, because my towball down weight is only going to be about 60kg.

Good advice... yes, please let me know how you go. I am at least getting a Redarc brake controller installed in the coming weeks. Where I am getting this installed is an ARB dealer and they are giving me a quote on an OME suspension (will probably wait for caravan purchase now). I see posts by OJ, suggesting they are a much harder ride and if I recall use King coils (could be wrong) so paying a premium on the OME name. Do you know if there is a way to cross check the OME coils with the Kings?

Thanks for the advice.
Steve

[redbruce]

I will have a look through the threads here... any suggestions on bash plates? Any idea how the aluminum plates perform?



Good advice... yes, please let me know how you go. I am at least getting a Redarc brake controller installed in the coming weeks. Where I am getting this installed is an ARB dealer and they are giving me a quote on an OME suspension (will probably wait for caravan purchase now). I see posts by OJ, suggesting they are a much harder ride and if I recall use King coils (could be wrong) so paying a premium on the OME name. Do you know if there is a way to cross check the OME coils with the Kings?

Thanks for the advice.
Steve

Aluminium is 2/3 the weight of steel plates and twrice the price. It is arguably a better material in some ways for that job.

Michael at Boos recommended 4mm steel intercooler and 3mm for the rest to save weight and cost when I got mine. Boos now make aluminium versions for Pajero and thats the way I would go now.

There is no way to cross check OME (made by Kings) with Kings product as each is made to the retailers reqirements so not the same spring specs.

Dobinsons IMS are a better shock than OME in terms of comfort with control. Also larger bore and less fade.

[Dicko1]

Definitely go for alloy bash plates. Towing a van will see more weight added to the tow vehicle and once you load up with wife, kids and gear you will be near the legal limit of the vehicles weight capacity.

[erad]

I have a Bushskinz Intercooler/sump bash plate on my NW. I hit a wombat whilst doing 100 + km/h. A lot of hair but no dent. I shudder to think what the intercooler would be like if I didn't have the bash plate. I agree about the aluminium, except for one thing - with steel, you can remove the bash plate and hammer it out if it is badly bent. It will come roughly ack into shape. Possibly not so with aluminium, but then again it is the underside of the car and not so important. The Bushskinz bash plate is heavy - I di an oil change yesterday and my arms are still sore from putting it back. But it gives me confidence when I take the beast into some rough country.

I have a Jayco 16.5 ft poptop caravan and the Pajero tows it really well. I added air bags to the rear suspension, and I can recommend them. The suspension on my Pajero has sagged horribly, and the caravan pushed the rear suspension almost down to the stops. I cannot use load levellers. I wouldn't be able to get out of my driveway with the bracket fitted even without the lifted springs fitted, so I have to pump about 18 psi into the air bags to bring the van up to something like level. The ride without the van with this pressure is very rough, but dropping it back to 3 or 4 psi gives ne a reasonable ride when I am not towing. In my opinion, air bags are worth considering because of their versatility.

[Phoenix47]

Thanks for your comments redbruce on the Dobinsons IMS and cross referencing the OME coils with Kings - I was just curious to see how they line-up. I couldn't see the alloy bash plates at Boos on their web page - I will give them a call. It seems Dicko also agrees alloy is a way to go - I understand the pros/cons and as I am not going to do a lot of rock stuff, and looking to keep weights to a minimum, I will look closely at the alloys... will try and find a place here in Adelaide.

Thanks for the advice on the air bags with the Jayco erad. So do you have factory suspension with the air bags or did you upgrade coils/struts/shockers?

[flyboy]

The hesitation from some members seems to relate to the potential for airbag failure if you’re relying heavily on them to make the car driveable in remote areas. In that case, perhaps a backup plan such as a spare bag and fittings/hose.

I haven’t heard of failures amongst any of my friends. If there was a failure, I imagine it’s more likely to be the fittings/hose than the actual bag.

I have BushSkinz steel 4mm sump and intercooler, and Boos 3mm steel transmission. I like the Bushskinz plates better.

If you’re looking at adding all those accessories you listed before such as plates, dual battery etc. you’ll need to keep an eye on your total weights - so aluminium might be the ticket.

[old Jack]

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the forum, there are quite a few Adelaide forumites.
Please see my comments imbedded in your post copied below.

OJ.

Hi Folks

I’m new to the forum, my first post here…

I am looking for some advice on upgrading suspension on my MY2013 NW Pajero 3.2lt diesel in readiness for a caravan purchase and some separate off-road work. The caravan will be used for both short and longer journeys (planning a trip to tour WA and some central areas of Australia - we will unhitch van on anything that is not a good, unsealed road). While I know we should probably acquire the caravan first, so we know our final weights, I am keen to move forward on the suspension upgrade if sensible enough to do so, given that we are confident on the caravan we are looking to buy – a Jayco expanda outback (single axle, 16.49ft)... I thought I should get the car ready to take the van off someone’s hands. Perhaps we need to be more patient and get advice once we purchase, but I am not comfortable with the sag in the rear to row once we find a van. We have also been looking for 6+ months now (second hand) and we keep missing out each time we have found something suitable (…but we persist), so thought I could perhaps get the car 'ready'.

OJ; I suspect there will be a greater selection of used campers and caravans in the next 12 months as things get tougher for many people. Until then have you considered hiring a similar unit through Camplify? https://www.camplify.com.au/?gclid=C...RoCeEAQAvD_BwE
Goldstream campers have a higher build quality but similar design to Jayco, it is a bit like a Prado vs a Pajero, why pay the Jayco Tax?

The weights for these vans vary depending on configuration. A particular configuration we are after (typical weights):

Caravan - Tare: 1679kg, ATM: 2054kg, TBW (empty) 155kg (Max ball load 192kg), GVM: 2000Kg, GTM: 1899kg.
OJ; Sensible decision keeping under 2100kg ATM.

Pajero - The NW has done 126k, has a factory suspension and alloy bull bar. Rhino pioneer platform rack (25kg). No other extras (no second battery, bash plates, etc.).
OJ; Low kms for a MY13. Is it a genuine Mitsubishi alloy bar? If so then these are very light, about 25kg.

The original suspension has sagged with following ‘unladen’ measurements (no passengers, just a small toolbox, some deck chairs in back).
OJ; Factory original unladen ride heights are 503mm front and 533mm rear, so the suspension has sagged significantly.

FR: 480mm; FL: 490mm; BR: 490mm; BL: 497mm.

I also use the car several times a year to access some of my work sites around the Flinders Ranges (Quorn, Hawker, Orratunga, Leigh Creek, Warraweena) – much of this is good, unsealed roads, but depending on how often the grader comes through, it can be ‘teeth rattling’ corrugations. There are some areas where clearance can be an issue so a lift would help and useful for towing.
OJ; I am very familiar with these areas, are you running light truck construction tyres?

All that said, the car is an everyday bitumen ‘work horse’ for 90%+ of its time. So, looking for compromise for both on and off-road and towing.
OJ; We all have to make compromises when setting up our 4wds, so it just depends on your priorities.

Based on what I have read here in the forum, I am considering… IMS struts/shockers with Kings KCFR-34 front and KCRR-35 rear coils. This I assume will give me a 25mm lift at front over factory (though I think the alloy bull bar is about 40kg) and 40-50mm lift at back over factory. The car will carry two adults (180kg – yes, we need to lose weight) and two kids in second row (100kg). Back area typically has 3 tubs of equipment (30kg), tools (10kg) and 40lt fridge (23kg full). I thought, if the back sags too much while towing, then perhaps air bags or WDH, though trying to avoid both or at least the former if possible (just something else to go wrong).
OJ; KCFR-34 are a sensible choice for the front suspension, KCRR-35 on the rear suspension will be more comfortable unloaded but may require airbags to assist the rear coils in maintaining ride heights. Have a look at anti sway WDH systems there are several available and increase the towing safety.
MT/IMS struts and shockers are well suited for off bitumen touring especially on long periods of corrugated roads. OzTec are a good mid range struts and shocker suitable for off road and touring but on some Gen 4 the rear lateral suspension arms need a small mode to ensure adequate clearance. KYB Skorched and Monroe TDT are also good quality and good valve products.

Other coil options might be KCFR-34H front (I believe same spring rate as FR-34, with 10mm more free length) and KCRR-35HD rear coils. I was also considering the Oz tec shockers/struts, but I can’t seem to see a model number for the 2013 NW (perhaps I am not looking hard enough).
OJ: considering the rear seat, rear cargo area and towball loads, the KCRR-35HD rear coils may be a better decision. The KCFR-34H will be too high when you are loaded and hitched up.
I can give you OzTec part numbers if you want them.


I too was going down a similar path as ‘turbosi’ in his thread (below) looking at Fulcrum formula suspension:
https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...suspension-kit. (A very helpful discussion). I see Tony used the Poly Tuff front and rear insulators. Would these be needed or assist with my proposed setup? And I see Peddars 5899 cone springs are a strong recommendation.
OJ; Chances are your lower rear insulators will be worn, no matter what you replace them with they will wear, PolyTuff will just last longer. No need to replace the rear upper insulators.
Peddars 5899 rubber cones springs do not fit Gen 4 Pajero's, just Pajero Sport and Challengers with live rear axle suspension..


Sorry for a long [first] post. I would be keen to get opinions before I make a move – much appreciated. Thank you.
OJ; No need to apologise for the post length, you have obviously done a lot of prior reading and the information you have provided greatly assist in us helping you.

OJ; I have all spring details for Kings and ARB/OME coils, which are made by Kings so quality is not a problem. ARB/OME Nitro-Charger/Sport struts and shockers are made by Monroe to ARB/OME specifications, so quality is not an issue but they tend to ride firm. You also pay considerably more for a ARB/OME setup than what you would using Kings/Monroe TDT combination.

Are you fitting the suspension yourself or using a mechanic or using a suspension company?

As others have pointed out, start soaking the suspension alignment adjusters with Inox or something similar, if these are rusted in and have to be cut out it adds considerable extra cost in parts and labour.

Steve

[Phoenix47]

Thank you OJ for the welcome and your comments - appreciated. See below for a few followup comments questions if possible...

OJ; I suspect there will be a greater selection of used campers and caravans in the next 12 months as things get tougher for many people. Until then have you considered hiring a similar unit through Camplify? https://www.camplify.com.au/?gclid=C...RoCeEAQAvD_BwE
Goldstream campers have a higher build quality but similar design to Jayco, it is a bit like a Prado vs a Pajero, why pay the Jayco Tax?
Yes, my wife and I were thinking tough times ahead (just hope this is not us too) so we will be keeping a closer eye out over the coming months and new year. We have hired camper trailers from Maketrax here in Adelaide. Its the reason why we would like to 'upgrade' and get one of our own. But yes, we will be hiring a Jayco swan with the car as it is for a short trip down the Victor Harbour way, but the step up to the expanda has me concerned even to hire without fixing my sagged suspension. Thanks for the tip on the Goldstream - I have seen the pop tops but discounted them as they were too heavy for what we are after. Though, you have prompted me to look again at their campers. While we 'are settled' as we can be on the Jayco expanda outback, this discussion has confirmed I should hold off (as others have suggested) on the suspension upgrade until I know what van we actually get in the end.

OJ; Low kms for a MY13. Is it a genuine Mitsubishi alloy bar? If so then these are very light, about 25kg.
Yes, it was low km when we got the car in 2016. Since then I have largely worked from home so not many km (except for the Flinders runs) and for the past 1.5 years we have not been able to do the Flinders run (for work) due to COVID (can't keep 1.5m from each other inside the car!).

OJ; Factory original unladen ride heights are 503mm front and 533mm rear, so the suspension has sagged significantly.
Yeh, probably loaded up too many runs of firewood without taking note of the weight. I may be splitting hairs... am I measuring correctly... vertical measurement from wheel center to top of wheel arch... I see the outer edge of the wheel arch is about 10mm higher than the inner edge as it tapers down from outside to inside. I may need to add about 10mm to each of my measurements if it is outer edge.

OJ; KCFR-34 are a sensible choice for the front suspension, KCRR-35 on the rear suspension will be more comfortable unloaded but may require airbags to assist the rear coils in maintaining ride heights. Have a look at anti sway WDH systems there are several available and increase the towing safety.
MT/IMS struts and shockers are well suited for off bitumen touring especially on long periods of corrugated roads. OzTec are a good mid range struts and shocker suitable for off road and touring but on some Gen 4 the rear lateral suspension arms need a small mode to ensure adequate clearance. KYB Skorched and Monroe TDT are also good quality and good valve products.

OJ: considering the rear seat, rear cargo area and towball loads, the KCRR-35HD rear coils may be a better decision. The KCFR-34H will be too high when you are loaded and hitched up.
I can give you OzTec part numbers if you want them.
Thanks for the info - yes, the summary above is what I am thinking and I will wait now until I get the van. It will also give me some time to know what my final mods might be (e.g. under bonnet ax battery - lithium would be ideal weight saver as well as its benefits but seems to be in early stages of development if I am not mistaken; also alloy bash plates). The OzTec was in the mix but a bit of a worry if a mod is needed to ensure clearance. If it is easy to do so, I would be keen to get the part numbers - thank you. I guess I was somewhat sold on the IMS/Kings after everything I have read and your 'recommendations' (on the IMS) in other threads, particularly the mono design and control of the coils.

OJ; Chances are your lower rear insulators will be worn, no matter what you replace them with they will wear, PolyTuff will just last longer. No need to replace the rear upper insulators.
Peddars 5899 rubber cones springs do not fit Gen 4 Pajero's, just Pajero Sport and Challengers with live rear axle suspension.
Okay thanks re: insulators. My bad re: Peddars 5899... I didn't pick this up it was not for Gen 4 Pajero's.

OJ; I have all spring details for Kings and ARB/OME coils, which are made by Kings so quality is not a problem. ARB/OME Nitro-Charger/Sport struts and shockers are made by Monroe to ARB/OME specifications, so quality is not an issue but they tend to ride firm. You also pay considerably more for a ARB/OME setup than what you would using Kings/Monroe TDT combination.
Ok, good to know. I figured there would be a 'cross reference' of some kind. Yes, prefer to go the Kings/Monroe combination rather than OME if it was going to save me $.

OJ; No need to apologise for the post length, you have obviously done a lot of prior reading and the information you have provided greatly assist in us helping you.
Thank you OJ - yes, I have spent several days reading many threads to bring me 'up to speed' (or very slow walk).

Are you fitting the suspension yourself or using a mechanic or using a suspension company?
I will likely get a mechanic/suspension company to do the job. I am not sure if I would be confident enough to do a good/correct job, particularly if some unexpected issues arise. If you have any suggestions on a trusted installer here in Adelaide, I'm all ears - I would not hold anyone to it though. I will start spaying suspension adjuster bolts - thanks.

Thank you again for your valuable input OJ.
Steve

[Phoenix47]

‘OJ; I am very familiar with these areas, are you running light truck construction tyres?’

yes, LT265/65R17 Micky Thompsons Deegan 38s - been excellent so far.

‘OJ; is it a genuine Mitsubishy alloy bar?’
i thought it was all this time - ill need to double check. i was contemplating swapping this out for smart bar and possible provision for winch… these are my considerstions over the next few months, which will all have a bearing on suspention and final GVM.

[Phoenix47]

OJ; I am very familiar with these areas, …. ‘
yes a very nice part of the world, particularly Oratunga and Warraweena.

[Dicko1]

Until you know what van weight you will be towing it is probably best to weight. Also will you have a separate fridge in the rear of the car? Extra camping gear? Another thing to ask yourself is...do I prefer camping lifestyle or the glamping/caravan lifestyle. Caravans are for those that like to shut themselves indoors after sundown and watch tv. Cooking inside next to the toilet and shower must have some appeal I suppose!! The pullout fridge and cooking slides on the Goldstream or Junko type campers are great space savers and allow you to really experience the country, people and surroundings a lot more. The Goldstream campers are far better quality than the Junko,s. I reckon prices will fall within 18 months when the market will see a lot of vans being sold due to financial strain on household budgets. Also the boat people will want the cruising lifestyle back so will flog their vans. Remember the GFC a decade ago when toys were dirt cheap and all the rich mining lads had to unload their toys?. I have Bilsteins on my NW and Lovells springs. Always travel with at least an extra 100kg in and on the rear of the Pajero. Towball weight around 230kg for a 2200kg camper (telegraph X). Heavy duty air bags as well make a big difference to get the combination nice and level. Had the suspension and airbags on for about 90,000klms (car at 99,000klms now) with no issues what so ever. Any van that weighs over 2.5 tonne loaded behind a Pajero is at its safe limits...the Paj will be close to its max weight also. Definitely buy second hand...too much money lost on brand new ..plus most bugs have been fixed and accessories added.

[old Jack]

Hi Steve,

Smartbar and winch will be heavier than a genuine MMAL alloy bar then + an aux battery under the bonnet + some under body guards and this may well change the front coil selection.

OzTec part numbers are Front 8015 Rear 60831, OzTec have not updated their online catalogue but the NT, NW and NX all have the same suspension.
http://www.oztecsuspension.com.au/catalogue.php
The rear shockers are 64mm in diameter and the gap in the lateral suspension arms is 68mm so in theory they should fit but recently when working on the son-in-laws NW we noticed the the shocker body was rubbing on the suspension arm in some positions of suspension travel due the the changing angle of the shocker. It was the lower portion of the pressed flange that was a problem as it was at about a 60 degree angle, so it was just a matter of rolling the flange over a bit more to about 80 degree, in a large vice and using some round bar as a press tool. I doubt if a suspension shop would check/notice this, it may not be even required, I think it depends on the batch of suspension arms because no one else has reported or noticed this problem.

Fitting a suspension is possible for the experienced home mechanic that has a trolley jack, jack stands and basic tools, having a mate assist makes the job easier also, if you but preassembled front struts and coil assemblies. Allow about 6 to 8 hours if it is your first time and if the suspension adjusters are not seized.
Suspension fitter/mechanic will charge between $500 and $700 to install if you supply the parts. A suspension supplier and fitter will charge less for fitting the suspension but more for suppling the parts.

On my PB Challenger I have been running the Dobinson MT which are the earlier version of the IMS, I like the valving being soft on compression and firm on rebound, but after 63,000 kms they have both started leaking, and need changing. Apparently the IMS are better but long term reports are not yet available. Not sure if I will try the IMS or change over to OzTec??? I ran Bilstein for 90,000kms but these struggled at max axle loads with EHDVR coils in rough desert/dune country, they were too soft on rebound and struggled to maintain suspension control.

If the NW is an auto then seriously consider fitting a torque convertor lockup kit, it will keep your ATF temperatures under control, reduce engine operating temperatures and reduce fuel consumption. MM4x4 TC kits are designed, built and tested in Adelaide by a forum member, and are the most advanced TC kits available. The top of the range Auto Mate Pro transforms the drive experience.

OJ.

[Phoenix47]

Until you know what van weight you will be towing it is probably best to weight. Also will you have a separate fridge in the rear of the car? Extra camping gear? Another thing to ask yourself is...do I prefer camping lifestyle or the glamping/caravan lifestyle. Caravans are for those that like to shut themselves indoors after sundown and watch tv. Cooking inside next to the toilet and shower must have some appeal I suppose!! The pullout fridge and cooking slides on the Goldstream or Junko type campers are great space savers and allow you to really experience the country, people and surroundings a lot more. The Goldstream campers are far better quality than the Junko,s. I reckon prices will fall within 18 months when the market will see a lot of vans being sold due to financial strain on household budgets. Also the boat people will want the cruising lifestyle back so will flog their vans. Remember the GFC a decade ago when toys were dirt cheap and all the rich mining lads had to unload their toys?.

Thanks Dicko, agree… I will wait until a final purchase on a van. I was just getting a head of myself… meanwhile, other than the suspension, I will have the ‘essentials’ installed (brake controller & luggage area 12v electrics, communications, under car protection, etc. and decide on ‘extras’ (which may end up being essential) over the coming months. We had an NJ Pajero for many years before the NW, fitted with all that we needed. The NW was basically a ‘clean skin’ and I am going through the motions of modification now that work has settled (or at least I can see light on horizon).
We are typically camper trailer folk and go away with a group of 3 other families (caravan parks and off-grid) – one has a J/Swan but it is always essentially camping! For us personally, we have had some medical issues to tackle in recent years. Unfortunately, these are now life-long, so looking for a little more ‘essential comfort’ (e.g. a toilet – too much info 😊) while giving our younger kids that camping feel and fun off-grid on occasion. So, a minimal set-up and more comfort approach is what we are looking for. I am also a bit of an imager of the night sky, a hobby I am keen to expand on with lighter/portable gear. If you have ever attended a ‘star party’, a simple accommodation setup is key (along with a comfortable sleep) as you are too busy tackling other imaging tech issues. We are generally up for most of the night and there is often no activity ‘allowed’ until 11am so people can get some sleep before we do it all again the next evening…. (yes, we are a strange munch). If you are interested… see attached image looking south from Warraweena Station (if I can workout how to attach a photo).

I have Bilsteins on my NW and Lovells springs. Always travel with at least an extra 100kg in and on the rear of the Pajero. Towball weight around 230kg for a 2200kg camper (telegraph X). Heavy duty air bags as well make a big difference to get the combination nice and level. Had the suspension and airbags on for about 90,000klms (car at 99,000klms now) with no issues what so ever. Any van that weighs over 2.5 tonne loaded behind a Pajero is at its safe limits...the Paj will be close to its max weight also. Definitely buy second hand...too much money lost on brand new ..plus most bugs have been fixed and accessories added.

This looks like a very attractive setup. Your weights seem not dissimilar to our likely setup. The airbags may be the way to go to allow a little more comfort on a ‘softer’ spring when van not in use. How do you find the Blisteins and Lovell combo in terms of feel with and without the camper?