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Cost of Oil !!

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  • Cost of Oil !!

    I got the NW serviced today, 15000 km's. I was in a rush to get out of there, so paid the bill. However, upon looking closely at it, the dealer charged $175 for oil, Havoline 5W40 Fully Synthetic. Does that sound right ? If it is, WOW, oil is expensive these days.

    The other thing is they told me that my warped brake rotors are from wear and tear, and not covered by warranty. 8 month old car, 15k km's. I'm not letting this one go, I'm gonna fight them all the way !!! They're effectively saying they are designed to be replaced every 12 months.

  • #2
    Petrol or Diesel?

    Petrol will have smaller capacity than diesel which is about 10Litres.
    NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

    Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

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    • #3
      Sorry, Diesel.

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      • #4
        They should have given you the option for oils. Synthetic or a standard oil approved by MM. Good luck with the rotors, Poor application of brakes going downhill towing a van will warp discs. ie: Overheated, so do not think they will entertain any claim.
        MY05 Exceed Di-D Auto, TuneIt chip, Turbo Timer, Aux.Trans cooler, Low Water Alarm, 20" Light bar, Bilsteins, H/D rear springs, B/Stone D697 L/T tyres, TPMS, MCC Alloy Bar,+90Narva H/L globes, Roof Console w/-GME 3340 uhf.Magellen GPS & Hema Hn6,Ark battery box w/-135a/h GEL, 60Lt FridgeMate,100W Solar, Ctec Dc-DC charger, Rola Aero Bars, UpTop Awning, Wheelie Bin, WetSeat covers, Crash cam.
        Towing. '00 Gazal Infinity ATV 18' Caravan.
        http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-metric/93405.png

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        • #5
          Fully Synthetic Diesel oil Is Expensive, but its worth every cent in the Long Run. Plus these motors hold a lot more oil also. Good Luck with the Rotor Claim, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
          NP 05 Platinum Edition, 3.2 DiD Auto, Extra H/D 50mm Kings, Garmin GPS, Waeco 40, Turbo Smart Boost Gauge, Lambwool Covers, Kumo Tyres, Rock Sliders Pending, Surrey Downs Adelaide Sth Aust.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by d1xon View Post
            The other thing is they told me that my warped brake rotors are from wear and tear, and not covered by warranty. 8 month old car, 15k km's. I'm not letting this one go, I'm gonna fight them all the way !!! They're effectively saying they are designed to be replaced every 12 months.
            Pfft, what a joke! This is why I hate dealers for servicing. Time to put some decent aftermarket discs on by the sound of it. Forced upgrade lol.

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            • #7
              I take my own oil for services. Can buy from just about anywhere and it will be cheaper than dealers.
              NT ACTIV 2010 DID Manual

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              • #8
                About $130-140 would be a fairer price. Never seen it cost that much.
                $60-70 for 5L from Autobarn down here.
                .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
                NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

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                • #9
                  Haveline fully synthetic 5w 40 is about $170 for 20 litres at a Caltex distributor, half what you paid. Service depts. would get it cheaper in larger quantities.
                  Peter

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Morville View Post
                    Haveline fully synthetic 5w 40 is about $170 for 20 litres at a Caltex distributor, half what you paid. Service depts. would get it cheaper in larger quantities.
                    Peter

                    As someone once said "oils ain't oils".

                    Valvoline MST 5W-30 in mine from first oil change. Filter and oil changed every 7,500Ks and 99.9% BP diesel.

                    Sure, it is expensive oil but so was the Pajero.

                    Internals were spotless when motor pulled down at 220,000Ks.

                    Manifold and egr nearly perfect with minimal crap.

                    My mechanic had a Holden Astra in for service on Tuesday....12 months and 34.000Ks over due. Service is the name of the game.

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                    • #11
                      Not wanting to start an arab oil war, nor taking the thread OT, but I argue with regular oil change intervals, the only difference you will notice to your powerplant over its lifetime re mineral V synthetic is the change in your back pocket........ Unless OUA proves you can get 3 times the life out of your Synthetic over mineral.

                      All service agents are renowned for excessive markup on "workshop supplies". If your able, its certainly more cost effective to do this part of the service yourself, but beware any warranty implications.
                      MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. My14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

                      Love from the dime a dozen, lonely army type/weekend warrior dude with a dual cab and all the same shit as everyone else who doesn't know any better. Thanks for the tip Bru.

                      NX buildhttps://www.pajeroforum.com.au/core/...ive%5B1%5D.gif


                      My Journeys

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sharkcaver View Post
                        Not wanting to start an arab oil war, nor taking the thread OT, but I argue with regular oil change intervals, the only difference you will notice to your powerplant over its lifetime re mineral V synthetic is the change in your back pocket........ Unless OUA proves you can get 3 times the life out of your Synthetic over mineral.

                        All service agents are renowned for excessive markup on "workshop supplies". If your able, its certainly more cost effective to do this part of the service yourself, but beware any warranty implications.
                        Agreed, MRT did some very extensive testing with oil viscosity and particles by running several tests over 10, 20, 30+km thousands kms and found only minor break down and abrasion with old oil compared with new. I would change regularly but modern oil and modern engines will go forever even when not looked after.

                        I can sort of attest to this with several Hiluxs and Navs (old D22) which are in the 330,000km range now, and I can tell you the average service interval is around 25,000kms and they are fine. Oil is black but nothing wrong with the motors. The Nav even had 7L poured in on top of the old 5L left and ran for two weeks before it choked on it's own oil and stopped. Drained the 12L out and but the right about in, and apart from burning off some excess oil she's fine. Amazing.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by d1xon View Post
                          ...NW serviced today, 15000 km's...
                          Just had my NW 'Capped Price' 15000Km service. The oil price was reasonable $72 for 10 litres but the whole bill was $395.

                          Considering the 15K service is "change the oil & filter and check that there are still 4 wheels on the ground" I reckon it's more like 'fixed' price servicing

                          Mind you, also just had SWMBO's Aurion serviced by Toyota (same type of service as above) and it was $324. They charged $85 for 6 litres.

                          Funny how workers are blamed for the high costs in Oz ain't it?
                          Cheers,
                          Dave.
                          NW GLX-R MY13 3.2 DiD auto.
                          2016 Concept Innovation 600R caravan

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sharkcaver View Post
                            Not wanting to start an arab oil war, nor taking the thread OT, but I argue with regular oil change intervals, the only difference you will notice to your powerplant over its lifetime re mineral V synthetic is the change in your back pocket........ Unless OUA proves you can get 3 times the life out of your Synthetic over mineral.

                            All service agents are renowned for excessive markup on "workshop supplies". If your able, its certainly more cost effective to do this part of the service yourself, but beware any warranty implications.
                            I agree with this sentiment too.
                            2013 NW VRX

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                            • #15
                              An old metallurgist with at Phd in the subject once told me that under normal operating conditions (which is what our engines operate at) you cannot destroy an oil in the engine. You can only dilute it with unburned fuel and fill it with combustion contaminants which is why it goes black.

                              Different brands and types of oils will "last" different amounts of time and it often depends on the additives that the oil manufacturers put in.

                              For my money I change the oil every 7500kms between services at the dealer. My dealer has never charged an excessive amount for oil, though I suspect they use the cheapest stuff they can get.
                              2010 NT DiD Platinum, MM tow bar, Red Arc electric brake controller, ARB Delux bullbar, Ultimate HD suspension and shocks, Engineers cert for GVM upgrade, Airtech snorkle, Cooper ST Maxx, 2nd Battery+ extra sockets, catch can, intercooler/ sump/ transmission guard, scan guage II, Hid driving lights, Ironman awning, daytime driving lights + other little bits

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