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  • New Pajero owner !

    Hey guys, I just bought a brand new 2013 NW GLXR Pajero. This is my first Pajero I owned. I wanted to ask a few questions,

    Can someone give me a brief description of the 4wd gears?
    I know what 2h and 4h is but what are the rest ?

    Also do I have to turn trac off when I go into 4wd?

    And when should I use the rear diff lock ?

    And what's the recommended oil ?
    One more thing if the recommended oil change is
    7500km should I change it 100km before ?

    Sorry for so many questions,
    Cheers guys


    Edit: also what's the biggest tyre size you get without rubbing ? Cheers.
    MY13 NW Pajero GLXR 3.2 Turbo Diesel
    Bushskinz Sump & Intercooler plates , MM Alloy Bullbar , Safari Snorkel , Turbo Timer , Factory Rear Diff Lock , GME TX 3220 , HD Front & SD Rear 2" Lovells Springs, Hercules Terra Trac AT LT275/70/17 , Roley's rear skid plate , TC + RDL Mod , EGR blank , SPV Mod.

  • #2
    The dealer should have gone through how to operate the vehicle on delivery and you can ask questions on anything you don't understand. Sounds like poor service to me.
    Peter

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Turtlee View Post
      Hey guys, I just bought a brand new 2013 NW GLXR Pajero. This is my first Pajero I owned. I wanted to ask a few questions,

      Can someone give me a brief description of the 4wd gears?
      I know what 2h and 4h is but what are the rest ?

      Also do I have to turn trac off when I go into 4wd?

      And when should I use the rear diff lock ?

      And what's the recommended oil ?
      One more thing if the recommended oil change is
      7500km should I change it 100km before ?

      Sorry for so many questions,
      Cheers guys


      Edit: also what's the biggest tyre size you get without rubbing ? Cheers.

      Most of the answers you require are in a thing called "Instruction Book".

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Morville View Post
        The dealer should have gone through how to operate the vehicle on delivery and you can ask questions on anything you don't understand. Sounds like poor service to me.
        Peter
        The dealer..........

        Most of them don't have a clue.The dealer proudly told me the wiring on the nearside rear window was a heater to prevent the window from fogging.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by TheTaipan View Post
          The dealer..........

          Most of them don't have a clue.The dealer proudly told me the wiring on the nearside rear window was a heater to prevent the window from fogging.
          If you park close enough to a powerful enough transmitter, it possibly could.

          4H - permanent 4wd, use it whenever you want.
          4HLc - "conventional" 4wd, the centre diff is locked, so only use it on low traction surfaces.
          4LLc - Low range 4wd, with the centre diff locked, so only use it on low traction surfaces, when you're travelling more slowly and/or need the lower gearing and/or you don't want stability control interfering.

          Personally, I paid for 4wd, so I use it whenever I can. I recently spent a couple of days on sand, and used low range the whole time. I think the highest speed I hit was 50km/h, and the revs (from memory) were around mid 2k - I didn't feel the need for high range.

          Rear diff lock? On low traction surfaces, but I believe it kills the traction control, which I found to be much more effective than I ever imagined it could be. I guess that will be a trial and error thing - you'll need to work out for yourself when to use it, and when not.

          Oil? I'm still trying to figure that out myself - one day... Changing oil too early may hurt your bank balance, but not as much as changing it too late.

          Tyres? I haven't had trouble with 265/70R17, but I haven't had them long. Some have 285/70R17, which I may fit next time...
          NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

          Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

          Scorpro Explorer Box

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by nj swb View Post
            If you park close enough to a powerful enough transmitter, it possibly could.

            4H - permanent 4wd, use it whenever you want.
            4HLc - "conventional" 4wd, the centre diff is locked, so only use it on low traction surfaces.
            4LLc - Low range 4wd, with the centre diff locked, so only use it on low traction surfaces, when you're travelling more slowly and/or need the lower gearing and/or you don't want stability control interfering.

            Personally, I paid for 4wd, so I use it whenever I can. I recently spent a couple of days on sand, and used low range the whole time. I think the highest speed I hit was 50km/h, and the revs (from memory) were around mid 2k - I didn't feel the need for high range.

            Rear diff lock? On low traction surfaces, but I believe it kills the traction control, which I found to be much more effective than I ever imagined it could be. I guess that will be a trial and error thing - you'll need to work out for yourself when to use it, and when not.

            Oil? I'm still trying to figure that out myself - one day... Changing oil too early may hurt your bank balance, but not as much as changing it too late.

            Tyres? I haven't had trouble with 265/70R17, but I haven't had them long. Some have 285/70R17, which I may fit next time...
            Probably get better results staying in high range for sand work, momentum and tyre pressure is key, low range is too slow to achieve that. The Paj has enormous amounts of torque so reducing your gearing in low is not helping. The Paj should pull very strongly in high with the added bonus of being able to hit 50 kmh in second let alone 5th!! Plus the speed limit on most beaches is 8o kmh so stopping, shifting to neutral, shifting from low to high and back, and going again is just dumb.

            Low range has no place for sand, save it for steep rutted hills and backing your boat up steep driveways lol!!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by SuperYOOT View Post
              Low range has no place for sand, save it for steep rutted hills and backing your boat up steep driveways lol!!
              Not sure how much or how varied your sand driving has been, but IMHO low range is essential at times in soft sand.
              2012 NW Activ with all the fruit, stripped what I could for my new build and handed over to the Mrs as a daily driver.

              Current vehicle: 2016 Y61 GU Patrol Legend series Auto, (Last of the Breed)
              3505kg GVM Upgrade and 2" Lift | Warn XD 9000 Winch | Factory steel bar, towbar, snorkel, alloy roof rack | 285/70/17 (33") Mickey T ATZ P3's | 3" Manta Exhaust | ORS Drawer System | Manual Boost Controller | ECU Remap |

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by stevemc181 View Post
                Not sure how much or how varied your sand driving has been, but IMHO low range is essential at times in soft sand.
                I thought it provides too much torque and therefore digs you in deeper...

                Cheers, Brett


                2013 NW Pajero VRX - White - 3000kg Tow Kit - Sports Mesh Grille - Bonnet & Light Protectors/Weathershields - Thule Wingbar - Tyre Snake - Couplertec Electronic Rustproofing - Maxtrax Mk1 - Piranha Aux Battery Tray - Redarc 1240 Charger - ARB 47 Litre Fridge - MSA Fridge Drop Slide - Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier - ORS Drawers - ARB Deluxe Bullbar - GME TX3540 UHF & AE4703 Antenna - ARB Intensity Lights - ARB Onboard Compressor - Bilstein/Dobinsons Susp - Bushskinz x 4

                Comment


                • #9
                  Right foot supplies the torque, last thing you would want to do is run out of oomph in soft sand, how do I know? I had a forrester and thats exactly what it would do- grinding to a halt due to lack of torque, even though the car still wanted to go forward. Low range is also better as its easier to find the right gear, you now have 5 gears up to 80 km /hr- effectivly making it a close range box. I regulary drive at up to 80Km/hr in low range, just like the owners manual says you can.
                  2013 NW GLX-R Factory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher. GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It boils down to the conditions, sometimes high range will be suitable and other times low range will be required. It's not always possible or safe to do 80kmh on a beach, it all depends on the sand and how soft or how compacted it is.
                    If bogged in sand, I wouldn't be attempting to get out in high range.
                    2012 NW Activ with all the fruit, stripped what I could for my new build and handed over to the Mrs as a daily driver.

                    Current vehicle: 2016 Y61 GU Patrol Legend series Auto, (Last of the Breed)
                    3505kg GVM Upgrade and 2" Lift | Warn XD 9000 Winch | Factory steel bar, towbar, snorkel, alloy roof rack | 285/70/17 (33") Mickey T ATZ P3's | 3" Manta Exhaust | ORS Drawer System | Manual Boost Controller | ECU Remap |

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jimbo2 View Post
                      Right foot supplies the torque, last thing you would want to do is run out of oomph in soft sand, how do I know? I had a forrester and thats exactly what it would do- grinding to a halt due to lack of torque, even though the car still wanted to go forward. Low range is also better as its easier to find the right gear, you now have 5 gears up to 80 km /hr- effectivly making it a close range box. I regulary drive at up to 80Km/hr in low range, just like the owners manual says you can.
                      You had the wrong Forester, My XT used to pull away in 2nd thanks to the brilliant 2.5 Turbo a 4.444 Diff gears. But I see your point, but my point is with enough torque (NW Paj) you don't ever need it on sand. 1st should be low enough!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SuperYOOT View Post
                        Probably get better results staying in high range for sand work, momentum and tyre pressure is key, low range is too slow to achieve that. The Paj has enormous amounts of torque so reducing your gearing in low is not helping. The Paj should pull very strongly in high with the added bonus of being able to hit 50 kmh in second let alone 5th!! Plus the speed limit on most beaches is 8o kmh so stopping, shifting to neutral, shifting from low to high and back, and going again is just dumb.

                        Low range has no place for sand, save it for steep rutted hills and backing your boat up steep driveways lol!!
                        Thank you for your opinion, but we will need to agree to differ. I've done my share of sand driving, including Stradbroke & Fraser Islands, two crossings of the Simpson Desert and several weekends playing in dunes around SA. I choose what gives me better results.

                        Yes, sometimes I use high range, but there are times when I choose low range. I prefer low range in the auto, because soft sand works the torque converter hard enough as it is - using low range gets torque to the wheels without working the torque converter as hard.

                        I'll stick with what works for me.
                        NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                        Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                        Scorpro Explorer Box

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Turtlee View Post
                          Hey guys, I just bought a brand new 2013 NW GLXR Pajero. This is my first Pajero I owned. I wanted to ask a few questions,

                          Can someone give me a brief description of the 4wd gears?
                          I know what 2h and 4h is but what are the rest ?

                          Also do I have to turn trac off when I go into 4wd?

                          And when should I use the rear diff lock ?

                          And what's the recommended oil ?
                          One more thing if the recommended oil change is
                          7500km should I change it 100km before ?

                          Sorry for so many questions,
                          Cheers guys


                          Edit: also what's the biggest tyre size you get without rubbing ? Cheers.
                          All good questions, but covered in bucket loads in other posts. Although the search option on this forum is not easy, sometimes, to find out exactly what you want, at times.
                          Agree also, that the dealer should have covered all your queries, before you left the dealership. There again, my mate who recently bought an NW, was told be the dealer, that the beeping you hear on startup, as you turn the key, is for the glowplugs heating up on the diesels. I was told the same thing....same dealer. So they can lead you astray sometimes.
                          As far as driving in deep soft sand, I'm a "low ranger" as well. Prefer as much torque as I can muster.
                          With Your oil changes, you shouldn't have to worry about that for a while either? The "fixed priced service" is still part of the deal these days, isn't it??
                          Unless, of course, you choose to change the oil every 7,500kms. I don't, as I don't do hard k's at all...ie towing etc. I just go with the MMAL recommended 12 months15,000kms. There's plenty of arguments about that as well.
                          Welcome to the forum!!
                          Last edited by Silver Streak; 18-12-13, 07:14 AM.
                          Cheers, Tony.

                          Silver Streak.

                          2010 NT (Nov) Platinum Pajero, DiD auto, Iron Bark.
                          Factory Tow-bar, Colour coded ARB Deluxe Bullbar, Hankook Dynopro RT03 MT Tyres, 265/R70x17, Bilstein/Lovell HD 2" lift kit, Bushskinz underbody protection plates, Navar Blue 225's, TJM Airtec Snorkel, Tinted Pajero Bonnet Protector, Uniden UH7750NB UHF-CB, Rhino Rack Sunseeker ll Awning (2.5m x 2m), Full Tint + UV film on privacy glass, Dash Mat, Techniice 60ltr Fridge/Freezer.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by nj swb View Post
                            Thank you for your opinion, but we will need to agree to differ. I've done my share of sand driving, including Stradbroke & Fraser Islands, two crossings of the Simpson Desert and several weekends playing in dunes around SA. I choose what gives me better results.

                            Yes, sometimes I use high range, but there are times when I choose low range. I prefer low range in the auto, because soft sand works the torque converter hard enough as it is - using low range gets torque to the wheels without working the torque converter as hard.

                            I'll stick with what works for me.
                            No problem, I grew up on and learned to drive on the sand on those islands (in Subaru's actually) and have since towed many a camper behind everything from a Forester to a Patrol on every beach from SE Qld to Bundaberg and never touched low range once. Besides, most 4WDs come with a useless low range of 2:1 which is barely enough to slow an empty car down steep hill in the autos!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              [QUOTE
                              Low range has no place for sand, save it for steep rutted hills and backing your boat up steep driveways lol!![/QUOTE]






                              Your joking or trolling I would say trolling





                              OK found it http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...?do=ignorelist
                              Last edited by lizard; 17-12-13, 07:00 PM. Reason: added link

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