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  • Perth dual battery installation

    Can any of the Perth people on here recommend someone for a dual battery installation. I'm almost certain to go with a Traxide isolator.

  • #2
    Sorry I cant help answer your question. But I have a couple to throw at you.

    1. could you do this yourself? At the end of the day, with some basic electrical knowledge, its not that hard really

    2. Is the traxide going to do the job for you, considering the NW's alternator is ecu controlled, potentially not charging the aux as it should be? It seems the only way around this issue is with an expensive low voltage dc-dc charger.


    read here:
    http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=25616
    MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. My14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

    Love from the dime a dozen, lonely army type/weekend warrior dude with a dual cab and all the same shit as everyone else who doesn't know any better. Thanks for the tip Bru.

    NX buildhttps://www.pajeroforum.com.au/core/...ive%5B1%5D.gif


    My Journeys

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    • #3
      Tim from Traxide assures me that he has NWs running the SC80 with no problems.
      I could have a go at doing the job myself with a little assistance from my son but I did want to get it done "professionally" and while I realise that can be problematic, I was hoping to get a recommendation. If I don't then I'll do it myself.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey dwwakefield.
        I've heard a lot of talk about the late model pajero alternators and how they won't fully charge an aux battery, but I've just got to say, although I'm not an auto sparky, I've installed an SBI 12 Red Ark smart solenoid and its always kept me charged and the beers cold! I see no need for theses expensive dc dc chargers or what ever they are. I took advice from ARB in Mandurah. Very helpful bunch
        Greg
        Cheers, Hatto

        2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
        ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

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        • #5
          Thanks for your advice 0415discog.

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          • #6
            I have a NW and I installed a SBI 12, it will charge you aux battery but the SBI 12 will click in and out all the time because the alternator will drop below the voltage of the SBI 12 causing it to open and close.
            I got sick of hearing it clicking all the time and ended up installing a redarc dcdc 1220 ign.

            Doug
            2012 NW Pearl White VRX, factory tow bar, factory diff lock, OEM nudge bar, bushskinz intercooler & sump plates,
            Bridgestone Duellers 265 60 18 LT
            ironman awning, Redarc 1220 ign dual battery, rhino roof bars, rhino steel mesh platform, drifta single rear drawer, UHF
            and hopefully more to come soon

            Adventure offroad camper - Cape York

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dwwakefield View Post
              Tim from Traxide assures me that he has NWs running the SC80 with no problems.
              I am sure I read on here somewhere in one of the dual battery threads that the early NW's may not have the ECU controlled alternator? If this is the case then it could be why some seem to have no issues with running an isolator instead of DC-DC charger?
              Can anyone confirm if this is the case, and if so, when were the ECU controlled alternators introduced and is there any difference in their physical appearance?
              2012 NW Activ with all the fruit, stripped what I could for my new build and handed over to the Mrs as a daily driver.

              Current vehicle: 2016 Y61 GU Patrol Legend series Auto, (Last of the Breed)
              3505kg GVM Upgrade and 2" Lift | Warn XD 9000 Winch | Factory steel bar, towbar, snorkel, alloy roof rack | 285/70/17 (33") Mickey T ATZ P3's | 3" Manta Exhaust | ORS Drawer System | Manual Boost Controller | ECU Remap |

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              • #8
                I've installed a Traxide USI-160 in my new NW. It's working great. Whilst the engine is running the relays stay open all the time ('ignition' mode). I'm very pleased
                2013 MY14 Pajero GLX-R | 265/70R17 General Grabber AT2, ARB Deluxe Bar with Lightforce XGT HID's, 144w CREE Lightbar, Hayman Reese Towpack, TJM Dual Battery Tray, Traxide USI-160, Engel 42L, Alinco DR-620 VHF/UHF|

                2012 MY12 Triton GLX | 245/75R16 Mickey Thompson STZ, ARB Deluxe Bar with Brush bar/side step combo and IPF Spotties, Steel Tray, Mitsubishi Towpack, Safari Snorkel, GME 80ch UHF |


                The above post is my own personal view and not that of my employer.

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                • #9
                  My 2012 model NW stays open all the time I'm driving. I've mounted an led dash light to tell me when its open or closed. Think I read in another thread earlier that if you run your air conditioner or park lights whilst driving it'll keep the alternator charging at above the required 12.7v to keep the solenoid open.
                  Cheers, Hatto

                  2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
                  ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Man this whole ECU alternator thing gets confusing, I was leaning towards using a DC-DC charger, but it seems there are a lot on here with the NW's using an Isolator such as the Traxide SC80 or USI-160 and having no problems.


                    Back to the drawing board for me to rethink my future dual battery set-up.
                    2012 NW Activ with all the fruit, stripped what I could for my new build and handed over to the Mrs as a daily driver.

                    Current vehicle: 2016 Y61 GU Patrol Legend series Auto, (Last of the Breed)
                    3505kg GVM Upgrade and 2" Lift | Warn XD 9000 Winch | Factory steel bar, towbar, snorkel, alloy roof rack | 285/70/17 (33") Mickey T ATZ P3's | 3" Manta Exhaust | ORS Drawer System | Manual Boost Controller | ECU Remap |

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The best thing to do is buy one of these;

                      http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QP2220

                      And plug it into the cig lighter and watch if the voltage drops below 12.7 or varies.
                      I did this and I was amazed how much the voltage changed.


                      Doug
                      2012 NW Pearl White VRX, factory tow bar, factory diff lock, OEM nudge bar, bushskinz intercooler & sump plates,
                      Bridgestone Duellers 265 60 18 LT
                      ironman awning, Redarc 1220 ign dual battery, rhino roof bars, rhino steel mesh platform, drifta single rear drawer, UHF
                      and hopefully more to come soon

                      Adventure offroad camper - Cape York

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i wouldnt hesitate in going for a Redarc BCDC charger. aside from the NW maybe or maybe not having a temperature controlled/variable voltage alternator, the Isolators just will never actually reach a full charge into the auxillary battery. (they say around 70-80%).
                        05 NP DiD Auto. 265/75R16, OME Suspension, ARB Dlx B/Bar, Warn Zeon 10-S, IPF HID's, Rear Drawer Setup, Pioneer Platform Rack, ARB 78l Fridge, GME TX3520SW UHF.

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                        • #13
                          I have been running a normal REDARC-SBI12 for around a month on my 2013 NW ,no problems to note,aux battery always seems to have power for the fridge and a couple of days ago I installed another Aux battery under the cargo area and it will be interesting if this battery will also get charged.
                          So now that's 3 batteries to charge??

                          I would be willing to buy a DC-DC charger but if all works well,why would one bother ?

                          Could be just a scare tactic to take more of your money by updating.
                          Auto 2013 NW EXCEED Turbo Diesel
                          Mainly used for towing Off-road Jayco Expanda,Off-road camper trailer,
                          Shopping trolly and school bus.

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                          • #14
                            The plus for the BC DC is that it allows correct charging of dissimilar batteries. ie wet cell main battery and gel type auxiliary. It does this by creating a charge rate the best suits the battery type. As the BC DC charger is similar in construction to a 240v battery charger it will accurately charge a battery to 100% no matter what the style of battery. Yes they are more expensive, but how many times have you gone to use your fridge and the capacity of the auxiliary battery is not what it is rated? The best way to check and see if your wet cell battery is charged to 100% is with a hydrometer, I can near guarantee that if you check both the start and auxiliary batteries with a hydrometer the specific gravity will be below what it should be to fully charged. I do not have a dual battery system on my NT yet but the specific gravity is always below fully charged, hence why every now and then it gets put on a trickle charge to ensure longer battery life.
                            NT GLS Manual.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Isa paj View Post
                              The plus for the BC DC is that it allows correct charging of dissimilar batteries. ie wet cell main battery and gel type auxiliary. It does this by creating a charge rate the best suits the battery type. As the BC DC charger is similar in construction to a 240v battery charger it will accurately charge a battery to 100% no matter what the style of battery. Yes they are more expensive, but how many times have you gone to use your fridge and the capacity of the auxiliary battery is not what it is rated? The best way to check and see if your wet cell battery is charged to 100% is with a hydrometer, I can near guarantee that if you check both the start and auxiliary batteries with a hydrometer the specific gravity will be below what it should be to fully charged. I do not have a dual battery system on my NT yet but the specific gravity is always below fully charged, hence why every now and then it gets put on a trickle charge to ensure longer battery life.
                              This is 100% true. And the route I am going to take if and when I upgrade to an NW. Currently in the Patrol its a standard voltage isolator and my 120AH AGM has suffered as a result. I have now been topping up both batteries with a 3-stage charger which pulses to clean the electrodes too. My original OEM Patrol battery lasted five years of sub 10km drives.

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