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My2021 nx

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  • My2021 nx

    So I was planning on buying a Tritton in a years time and retiring my MY2016 Pajero to touring duties however with 2021 to be officially the last year for mighty Pajero I'm currently in two minds whether to trade in my 2016 NX for these last Gen4s or keep the 2016NX and proceed as planned. Being MY2016 it doesn't have DPF and only has 57Ks on it currently. What are the pros and cons that I should consider to assist in my decision making. Obviously the 10 yr warranty is a starting point.
    Last edited by 98NL GL; 1 week ago.
    XSWAT 1998 NL GL, 3.5L MANUAL, 2" OME 50 mm Lift, MAXXIS 751 33X12.5R15 on CSA N26 RIMS with -11 OFFSET, UNIDEN UHF, NARVA 175 SPOTTIES, AIRCON & RADIO/CD,......CONVERTED to SEVEN SEATER, Manual Hubs (ex tritton)
    1990 NG SWB 2.5 TDI AUTO JAPAN IMPORT, 33s, LIGHT BAR, GEN 2 IDLER & PITMAN ARMS. PLANS - Dual Battery, GEN2 front brake calipers.
    1999 NL SWB 2.8 TDI AUTO JAPAN IMPORT, ARB BULLBAR, DUAL BATTERY, SPOTTIES, ROOF RACK.
    2016 MY16 PAJERO GLX AUTO DID GRAPHITE COLOR STOCK

  • #2
    The 10 year warranty seems to have a few strings attached so probably look right into that. Must be serviced at dealer etc.
    2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent catch can, Boos bash plates, Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, fridge slide, kings springs, Dunlop ATG3s, Auto-mate, ultragauge, more to come...

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    • #3
      2016 no pdf. keep it no brainer. IMO, 2021 last one wont make Paj too special. Paj is Paj for decades.
      edit: no dpf
      Last edited by Ozzz; 1 week ago.
      My20 Nx Gls Graphite | Tow Bar| Plates Sum,Trans&Rear| Munji Egr| Provent Catch Can| Automate| Rock Slider| Diff Breather| 17 NP Alloy Rims (waiting for deployment)| Paddle Shift| 40W LED Fog Light|

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      • #4
        It's not that old, I'd keep the 2016 model. Mine's a 2015 and it's not going to leave me until I die or it does.
        2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit. Goldstream caravan and a TVan Firetail.

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        • #5
          Save your money and keep the 2016. They’ll rip you $20,000 changeover for what?
          Basically nothing.
          2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
          MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights.

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          • #6
            I can't figure out why the consensus is against owning a vehicle with a DPF? Every diesel sold in OZ from mid 2016 has one.

            They are here to stay.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
              I can't figure out why the consensus is against owning a vehicle with a DPF? Every diesel sold in OZ from mid 2016 has one. They are here to stay.
              I hesitated to buy the NX because of the DPF but once I have it and able to monitor burns I thought it is not so bad. Just a wee bit inconvenient as I should not stop while B1S1 alarm went off. I guess DPF is better than adblue?
              03/19 MY18 Pajero NX GLX Graphite | Tow Bar | Catch Can | Pre Fuel Filter | EGR Off Module | K&N Filter | Roof Racks | Torque Pro | Tuningkit Race Chip | Auto-Mate (pending install)

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              • #8
                Have read dealers can't repair the Adblue system. The can only replace it costing the consumer around $5,000

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                • #9
                  the dust inside dpf wont come out after burn. eventually we either need to clean the dpf(sometimes it breaks during the process) or replace it. And you need to drive it under certain conditions. If we drive it in the desert with average speed 15-20k/h for 5 days, the dpf may not burn properly, then we may have a problem. I dont like the risk of being limp mode, other than that, I like the idea of having a dpf for meeting emission and health requirement. much better than Adblue system.
                  My20 Nx Gls Graphite | Tow Bar| Plates Sum,Trans&Rear| Munji Egr| Provent Catch Can| Automate| Rock Slider| Diff Breather| 17 NP Alloy Rims (waiting for deployment)| Paddle Shift| 40W LED Fog Light|

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ozzz View Post
                    much better than Adblue system.
                    Apart from filling the add blue tank, what problems have you seen with ADD blue systems?

                    Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dreamerman View Post
                      I hesitated to buy the NX because of the DPF but once I have it and able to monitor burns I thought it is not so bad. Just a wee bit inconvenient as I should not stop while B1S1 alarm went off. I guess DPF is better than adblue?
                      DPF and Adblue have nothing to do with each other, DPF filters out diesel particulates and Adblue reduces NOx out the exhuast. Adblue replaces EGR not DPF.

                      30000K's and I still wouldn't know the DPF was there unless I looked and I have yet to hear of anyone having a problem...it's not a Toyota..

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Ozzz View Post
                        the dust inside dpf wont come out after burn. eventually we either need to clean the dpf(sometimes it breaks during the process) or replace it. And you need to drive it under certain conditions. If we drive it in the desert with average speed 15-20k/h for 5 days, the dpf may not burn properly, then we may have a problem. I dont like the risk of being limp mode, other than that, I like the idea of having a dpf for meeting emission and health requirement. much better than Adblue system.
                        From reading about Adblue you can have a DPF without Adblue but you can't have Adblue without a DPF.

                        Also I think the new regulations on diesels must have both to pass EUO 6.

                        As an aside you say . I like the idea of having a dpf for meeting emission and health requirement. but I notice you hava an EGR delete cable.

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                        • #13

                          Originally posted by Jasonmc73 View Post

                          Apart from filling the add blue tank, what problems have you seen with ADD blue systems?
                          AdBlue is a urea solution. If left stagnant for too long, the urea can crystallise, and block the injector lines. This means no AdBlue injection, which means no emissions control, which is not desirable - so AdBlue systems are gifted sufficient intelligence to recognise that AdBlue is not being injected, and create grief for the driver.

                          As I understand it, once the urea has crystallised in the lines (or elsewhere, like valves, I guess?) it is very difficult to unblock - so it must be beyond the ability of your average service monkey. Plug in computer, computer say replace system.

                          Personally, I'd rather have AdBlue than EGR & DPF, but I'd make sure I know how to unblock the system, or carry the right spares.
                          NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                          Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                          Scorpro Explorer Box

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                          • #14
                            AFAIK Adblue is injected into the exhaust not the engine.

                            AdBlue decreases emissions but is not a fuel additive! Contaminaion occurs when it's injected directly into the diesel tank. Most important: don't turn on!

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                            • #15
                              AdBlue is a Urea based injection designed to reduce NOX emissions, especially when the exhaust is very hot. It is injected into the exhaust, certainly not the engine.

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