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Run cable under car to rear anderson plug usb, fridge outlets in third row NX pajero

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  • Run cable under car to rear anderson plug usb, fridge outlets in third row NX pajero

    In my ns i connected into the rear cigarette lighter socket under the drivers sill see RGB in https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...-rear-12v-plug.
    I had trouble identifing the right wire in the nx....the rear aircon unit and fan means here are more wires. So I ran a cable from my second battery under the bonnet, under the car to a anderson plug near the towbar...and then up into the third row where i fitted some accesory sockets in the rear lower panels.
    Spoiler: its a lot easier to fit sockets in the LHS rear....you can run wires up from the underneath thru a grommet already there and you can reach inwards and rearwards from the hole the third row seat slips into its fitting.....on the RHS you have to take the top RHS panel off....which is not that easy. The RHS is nice for my engel fridge socket due to the way the wall bends around but its really laborious and tight and hard to judge where to drill a hole..

    To run a wire under car (I tried thru chassis and gave up)
    On Battery side of engine bay: there is a large hole inside edge of chassis rail just behind the rear of the passenger side engine mount.
    Feed a draw cord into this hole engine bay.... it will go down and feed rearwards until the rail does a kink about underneath the passengers feet.. look underneath , there is a large hole on bottom edge of rail here. This hole is about 20 cm behind front wheel guard and 5 cm in front of the bolt that is on the rear passenger side of the large sump guard. See photo.
    Make hooks in a coat hanger... because the rail kinks outwards here if you look in you should see draw cord towards inside or engine side of car. pull out, Duct tape twin cable to draw cord and draw twin cable through, I used 6mm Navra twin 50 amp....you need about 7m so don't buy the 5m Navra roll) .
    Next go over rail and run cable along the top of mounts for side steps ie between chassis and outside sill.
    About 30cm forward of rear muffler I crossed over to drivers side, I went over towards the end of heat shield for the muffler. Then I ran rearwards on drivers side along top of rear aircon pipes. and along tow bar to mid line into a Anderson plug I placed near the tow bar plug socket. From the rear Andreson plug I ran twin 5mm wires, one up into RHS rear panel and one up into LHS. There is a grommet under rear RHS and LHS where you can, with effort, feed up into the rear panels of the car.
    LHS grommet is near the exhaust muffler outlet. It leads into the area under the grill in rear passenger or LHS. There is some sound deadening material running vertically under the rear grill in the space that the cable ends up in as well as a small lip.... feed some soft coat hanger wire in to get the lay of the land as you reach backwards from the hole where the third row seat would clip in. You could also just drill a new hole in the floor more forwards.


    As mentioned above its much easier to go into the rear LHS. A (larger sized) 30mm stepper drills a neat hole in plastic for accessory sockets. I tried to pull the cup holder out on the LHS to thread wires forwards for a usb outlet near the mid row rear passenger side. There are three screws underneath holding it in( it is not just clips) I could get to one screw but the others were to hard so I gave up. I have a 2 m usb extension lead for if the kids want usb power in the mid row.
    Doing up the ring on the rear of new accessory plug sockets was difficult. I did up the merit plug in the photo first. A long nosed locking pliers could set at the right width let me do up the nut tightly after first doing it by fingers thru the USB accessory plug hole ( which is bigger) . The USB socket had a knurled nut and a screw driver could be held against it and tightened it easily.


    I ran twin wire with earth and power off the second battery through to the rea due to having a dc to dc charger between the two batteries and reading something about having the two systems isolated from the smart alternator...but the dc to dc charger ends up having a common earth with the main battery anyway....more on my dc to dc battery charger instillation in the future. I will post more photos of the finished job in the future as well.


    Last edited by rgb; 27-01-21, 06:59 PM.

  • #2
    Wow!! Seems like a lot of work.
    I'm getting too old to be lying under a car for hours.
    There are 'channels' running from the foot well on either side of the cabin, thru' to the wheel arch covering behind the second row seats.
    There is a plastic fascia which clips on at the side of each foot well; this gives concealed access from the fuse box on drivers side, and thru' the firewall large grommet on passenger side, (where the second battery would sit).
    Just prise up the plastic scuff plate on each door sill and all will be revealed. Those sets of plastic trim removal tools are great.
    It's then not hard to either unclip the wheel arch assembly from the rear and poke cables behind or poke a piece of hard wire or even that strip of yellow plastic that's used to join flooring panels that electricians like, and pull cables through.
    Have run heavy cables for the Anderson plug, for the Engel and cables for the caravan camera down the passenger side, and cables for a rear led spot underneath, for the caravan brake controller and rear car camera, down the driver's side.
    Crash cam. cables for front and rear cameras can be easily concealed under the roof lining trim.
    Every thing is snug, out of the way and invisible!
    Hope this helps someone!


    Greg

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