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A bit of luck my way.

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  • A bit of luck my way.

    Lost the keys to the Pajero last Saturday Had sight of them all day and couldn't find them when it was time to close the shed. Turned everything I could think of upside down on Sunday with no result. Ordered a new Key on Monday ($680 thank you very much)
    Monnday late arvo I started putting out the Hard refuse I was collecting on Sat and when I picked up the old gas hob the Pajero keys magically appeared!

    Bloody dodged a bullet with that one! Quick e.mail to the Dealer cancelling the order finished this little "episode" nicely. Learnt a big lesson on carrying the keys when you don't need to!

  • #2
    I wish I was as lucky as you. Lost/stolen or malicious intent i had to replace my keys and ignition barrel etc for my previous vehicle (mn triton). They went missing at work (nearly two grand to replace the lot). Thank goodness for insurance


    • #3
      I have a special spot for the spare & the tag that tells you key ID etc

      Local locksmiths if you have a key to copy can generally code a key cheaper than genuine.

      Wives Hyundai, $480, Locksmith $200 & it was a better key
      Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16


      • #4
        Pajero key supplied. cut and programed by locksmith $180.


        • #5
          Mike L: Imagine if you were way outback and somehow lost your keys. The procedure is that you need to get a flat top truck to come out, pick up the car and take it back to the dealer. The dealer then finds the key codes, sell you a blank key and then a locksmith will cut the key to that coding. Then the dealer has to use the MUTT to pair the new key to the car ECU. Cost this far - probably $600 or more. Then, when you get home and retrieve the spare key, it will not work because the coding of the new key has cancelled all other coded keys. So you then have to go to another dealer with both keys and get them to code the ECU to accept both keys. I have seen this with a young guy who had borrowed his mother's Mitsubishi Mirage and gone skiing and lost the keys. Apart from the cost, it took the dealer about half a day phoning Mummy in Sydney to approve the work, Mistsubishi in Adelaide to get the code, and then getting the locksmith to cut the key and then coding the key to the ECU.

          What I have done is to get 2 spare keys cut. One is uncoded, and it is wired under the car so I can get into the car should I lose my keys, and the other was coded by a guy at Dandenong Market in Melbourne. This key is kept inside the car so I can at least drive home again should I lose my keys. I am sure there are plenty of people out there who can code car keys nowadays. I paid $65 for my spare coded key in 2013. Naturally, because I have these keys, I have had no cause to use them, ut they are there should the need arise. It is cheap insurance.


          • #6
            Thanks for that info, just count myself lucky that the key didn't leave the yard. Has breought forward a conversation of where we keep the keys (Car & House when we're not actually using them. I now have a dedicated place in the house and the shed for the key.


            • #7
              a little sideline.... I had a locksmith cut a key for me- just the metal bit. It will get you into the car but obviously won't start it. Good for tying onto boardies at the beach- I don't think the electronic bit would enjoy a surf.


              • #8
                Just keep this in the back of your mind.

                The purpose of the code in the key is so that when you loose your key the key code can lock out the start of the car. if you go to a locksmith they will just copy the code. These means you have two keysthat are identical. This works for erad and can get home. How every someone finds you lost key and now can somehow find you/ your address/ where the paj is...... You now have given the key to start the car to the other party.

                I have grabbed from wreckers a couple of key so that a locksmith can code a different key number to the key (from a completely different car) this way I have three spares and when at home with similar understanding to erad I can then program the car to drop the lost key and thus have two to the car to then cycle a third back into the mix.

                Dont just have two keys that are the same it is just a means to get around the secure and high price for the transponder codes.


                • #9
                  G'Day Oldn64,
                  So if you replace one key and have a different code in it, will the new key and the old (remaining) key open and start the Car?
                  P.S. Not really understanding what you're explaining


                  • #10
                    My understanding is that when the keys are programmed to the ECU by the MUTT, ALL keys are required to be done at the same time. If you get a new key in Alice Springs and then travel home, you will have to get your spare keys from home and take the with you to get them programmed into the ECU. Oldn64 is right - when the locksmith or whoever clones a key, they are merely making a copy of the key you give them, so as far as the car knows, it is the same key being used. The probability of someone finding my lost keys in Alice Springs and then tracing me back to my home is fairly low, but yes - it is possible if they have evil intent to steal my car then they could do that.


                    • #11
                      Hi all,
                      so is there a scan tool that programs keys for Mitsubishi ?
                      we pick ours up next month, coming from Landrovers I have a nanocom which is obd 2 Landrover specific and can program keys and a lot more for d2 & d3, so is there something like this for the Pajero?



                      • #12
                        A couple of years ago I I lost the keys to the corolla I borrowed off my sister and had taken to Phillip Island from Melbourne. They had dropped out of a picnic basket on a long open beach. Didn't realise until I got back to the carpark up on the cliffs and hundreds of meters away from where I had set up.

                        Retraced my steps over and over until it was almost dark, hours had passed and the tide had gone out. A tiny shimmer caught my eye in the distance and there they were. Turns out the tide had come up, picked them up and dragged them out. It was only that the tide had dropped that revealed them, almost completely buried.

                        I had called roadside assistance and they were in the process of organising a locksmith (the only spare was in a different state). It was a Sunday and the following day was a public holiday. When I called them to cancel everything they said it would have cost me thousands.

                        I still don't know how I found them, or how the electric key still worked after being in the ocean. I cashed in all my lucky chips that day.
                        2009 NT GLS Manual DiD, Cool Silver Metallic, OEM alloy nudge bar, Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/65R17 116T, OzTec shocks & raised King springs, BushSkinz alloy intercooler & sump bash plates, BushSkinz steel side steps/sliders, ARB alloy mesh rack, Ultra Vision light bar, work in progress...


                        • #13
                          Nanocom's are a beautiful bit of kit and just work well but then again the tool is not cheap either. (Dad uses his Nanacom when he had the D2 and then the D3 and now the D6 had to reprogram it for this) I am not aware of a tool at present but I might be doing some RnD soon to do exactly this for the Daughters Gen3, my Gen2 doesnt have anything electronic and thus I havent needed it. The Mazda I run I can program keys without a special tool as there is a sequence that can be done to get to across the line.

                          But yes Erad is correct to drop a transmitter from the list of "allowed keys" you program into the vehicle the keys you have thus after the procedure the lost key will no longer start the car (technically it will still open the door through the door lock) but not through the keyless entry or the ignition barrel.

                          I do have MUT here but have not sat down to reverse engineer it yet. (time is not huge at the present)


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by willneill View Post
                            I still don't know how ... the electric key still worked after being in the ocean. I cashed in all my lucky chips that day.
                            I felt similar after a late night lap of the pool at Dalhousie with my keys in my pocket.

                            However, having had a (different) key apart to replace the battery (which turned out to be a dodgy PCB track) I was amazed at how well designed / waterproof they are. From memory, there were two separate clamshell style housings, one inside the other, both looking nicely waterproofed. A design that somebody actually thought about.
                            NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                            Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                            Scorpro Explorer Box


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