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Trim or remove air deflector for bash plate installation

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  • Trim or remove air deflector for bash plate installation

    Hello,

    I am just about to install a 3 piece set of custom offroad 3mm stainless 'Radiator, Diff/Sump and Transmission' bash plates.

    I have read before that I believe it is the radiator air deflector needs removal or trimming to be able to fit the radiator bash plate on.

    Can I please get some feedback on whether it is best to remove it or trim it and if trimming it is advised, any guide on how much to trim off, or shall if become obvious how much needs to be trimmed when trying to install the bash plate?

    I do tow a 2.5t caravan, so feel that maybe it is better to leave the deflector installed, but trimmed?
    2019 Pajero Sport GLS | Factory Alloy Bullbar | BFGoodrich T/A KO2 265/60/18 Tyres | Hayman Reese Towbar | Rhino Roof Racks | Uniden 8060S and AT970BK Twin Aerial | Safari Snorkel

  • #2
    To maintain maximum airflow through the radiator and condenser, trim the lower edge of the deflector so it has about 1mm to 2mm clearance from the bash plate.

    How much will depend on the bashplate you are fitting.

    If you remove the air baffle, fit the plate and measure from the attachment hole down to the plate. you should be able to get access from the side of the plate unless it is a plate will turned up sides panels.

    To cut the plastic air baffle you can use a fine tooth timber panel saw or a med tooth blade in a jigsaw or recip saw.

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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    • #3
      Thanks for the feedback OJ.

      I will see how the install goes and will keep the deflector installed.
      2019 Pajero Sport GLS | Factory Alloy Bullbar | BFGoodrich T/A KO2 265/60/18 Tyres | Hayman Reese Towbar | Rhino Roof Racks | Uniden 8060S and AT970BK Twin Aerial | Safari Snorkel

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      • #4
        All done. Got the deflector trimmed nicely and kept it installed. Ready for a bit of beach driving now.
        2019 Pajero Sport GLS | Factory Alloy Bullbar | BFGoodrich T/A KO2 265/60/18 Tyres | Hayman Reese Towbar | Rhino Roof Racks | Uniden 8060S and AT970BK Twin Aerial | Safari Snorkel

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        • #5
          Originally posted by old Jack View Post
          To maintain maximum airflow through the radiator and condenser, trim the lower edge of the deflector so it has about 1mm to 2mm clearance from the bash plate.

          OJ.
          Does this apply to the Gen 4 Pajero as well?
          2009 NT GLS Manual DiD, Cool Silver Metallic, OEM alloy nudge bar, Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/65R17 116T, Old Man Emu suspension, BushSkinz alloy intercooler & sump bash plates, BushSkinz steel side steps/sliders, ARB alloy mesh rack, work in progress...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by willneill View Post
            Does this apply to the Gen 4 Pajero as well?
            No, just Pajero Sport, Triton and Challenger.

            OJ.
            2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
            MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

            Comment


            • #7
              Agree that for maximum airflow through the radiator, condenser etc, the baffle plate should be retained and trimmed. However if you happen to hit something that bends up the bash plate, the baffle can be forced upwards,
              damaging the bottom of the radiator and causing a loss of coolant. A disaster in remote areas.
              I removed the baffle completely when I fitted bash plates and have had no problems with overheating or even any noticeable rise in operating temperature, even when driving in 40+ temperatures.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JohnFromPerth View Post
                Agree that for maximum airflow through the radiator, condenser etc, the baffle plate should be retained and trimmed. However if you happen to hit something that bends up the bash plate, the baffle can be forced upwards,
                damaging the bottom of the radiator and causing a loss of coolant. A disaster in remote areas.
                I removed the baffle completely when I fitted bash plates and have had no problems with overheating or even any noticeable rise in operating temperature, even when driving in 40+ temperatures.
                The air deflector is only plastic so it will bend if required.
                I have 4mm Bushskinz plates, all have taken large hits that have bent the plates but never has the bottom of the radiator been damaged.

                OJ.
                2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Old Jack.
                  I am basing the possibility of damage on a report on this forum a couple of years back.
                  Can't pinpoint the post, but bending up the front bash plate was enough to force the deflector upwards and crack the bottom plastic radiator tank. Note that the deflector is bolted to plastic 'wings' that are part of the tank molding. Maybe this was a freak occurrence where the deflector was caught at just the wrong angle and did not flex as expected.

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